First up, the original inspiration photo. I love the sleeveless cropped jacket (if you haven't already noticed from photos I've posted, I love cropped jackets and have several of them) And the collar is just fabulous.
(http://mydisguises.com/2008/05/19/deconstructing-steampunk-designing-your-own-costume/)
Then I was browsing the FIDM Museum Blog (Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising) and found this amazing bolero style jacket from the 1890s. Again its cropped and has that awesome collar. What's even better is they show a back view so that one can see that the collar does not extend across the back but instead stops at the shoulders.
(Check out http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2011/06/bolero-style-jacket-1894-1898.html for the article)
So with inspiration taken care of, I started thinking about patterns. There are two contenders. First up is McCalls 3033, a standard that I've used for several shrugs. My worry is that it is too small in the front to allow for a large collar like I want.
Another option is Butterick 5232, which I've also used for several jackets. Its a historical pattern for a cropped Victorian jacket. And it has two collars to choose from! However, even in a sleeveless version, it requires more fabric that I have left of the pink silk. I could do it if I cropped the jacket by another few inches, which would probably be more of what I want anyways.
So my options are this: (1) I use the shrug pattern and enlarge the front to allow for a large collar. The collar itself would likely come from the jacket pattern. OR (2) I shorten the jacket pattern and use one of the collars.
If I go with option (1) I might be able to use the pink silk for the collar. If I go with option (2) I will definitely have to do a contrast collar, for which I have several options -- white, black or maybe even a pink satin that might look interesting.
The lining will likely be the rest of the black sateen from the skirt (I have about half a yard, maybe) and I will be interlining it with white cotton to give the silk some body.
Right now my plan is this -- once the skirt is finished, I'm going to try on the outfit (blouse, corset, skirt) and try a couple jackets with it to see how they look style-wise. I know I have a sleeveless version of the shrug I've already made (its the black and silver plaid) but I don't have one of the jacket. The next step will be cutting my chosen pattern out of white cotton, then fitting and adjusting it before I use it as my pattern and interlining.
I think the jacket may be the most complicated piece of this outfit. After the corset of course.
Speaking of corsets, you should check out this article on how to wear a Victorian corset: http://us2.campaign-archive2.com/?u=d7d7ea251b760f56e4afa10bf&id=3bd90b856b
That's all for now! Feel free to comment and give your opinion on my jacket ideas.
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