Thursday, January 30, 2014

January 2014 - Project Update with Pictures!

I've decided to (try and) post an update at the end of each month about what I've been working on and (hopefully) what I've finished. So, here's the first one: January 2014!

  1. I started a Regency spencer for HSF #1 Make Do and Mend but never finished it. The pattern I used to base it off of was a very poor choice, and the spencer ended up with several pleats instead of being smooth to fit right. And I don't have enough fabric to recut all the pieces so...
  2. I made a pair of Regency short stays to go with my previously finished Regency chemise. I used Sense and Sensibility's Regency Underthings pattern and they came out pretty good I think. They'll be for HSF #4 Under It All, along with the chemise and the last piece, a petticoat with straps (which I have cut out but not started construction on).
Pretty hand stitched bust gussets
I hand quilted the short stays, with just a little boning because I don't really need that much support.
Finished short stays!

  1. I worked on a pair of 18th century stays, started forever ago (it feels like). I think they're coming along reasonably well, I'm up to the binding portion. In case you've ever wondered, binding the tabs on stays SUCKS. It's a horrid, but necessary, stage of construction. However, once I'm done with the binding, all I have to do is put eyelets at the shoulders and pick up some ribbon to tie the shoulder straps in place. I splurged a little bit (and used a coupon) on a 1/2 yard of cream silk for the binding. Totally put in metal eyelets though, cuz I am NOT dealing with handworked ones.
Stays, after I was finished with the boning.
Stays, in the midst of lining
Stays, while putting in the metal eyelets.
Stays, the top edge while binding.
Stays, approaching the end of the binding.

  1. I started an 18th century bum pad, just looked at a couple other seamstresses versions and drew up a pattern. I need to sew the two sides together so I have sections, then stuff it, close it up and put ties on it so it's wearable.
  2. OH! And I had a last minute Ohayocon commission for a friend -- a bolero jacket for her Elizabeth from Bioshock cosplay. Definitely put that one on the DONE list. Finished it on January 24th.
  3. Also in the works are two aprons for my dad and brother (I really should finish those...) and pajama pants for my cousin (which I also should finish...)
Apron fabric, because my father and brother are both named Clifford. I couldn't resist!
I've been brainstorming and planning and shopping for several other projects as well.
  1. I picked up 3 yards of cream cotton linen blend linen for an 18th century petticoat. Originally I was going to try to dye it pink to match the stays for the HSF #3 Pink challenge, but I'm terrified of ruining a not very inexpensive fabric purchase by attempting to dye it so....the stays will be for the pink challenge and the petticoat will be cream, which will coordinate with the stays.
  2. I also bought fabric for my Regency ballgown which'll be for HSF #6 Fairytale. It's a super lightweight cotton shirting white on white with a silver metallic pinstripe. I got an amazing deal on that fabric by the way, I only hope that there's enough for the dress! It's 50 inches wide so I *think* I can eck it out, I just really wanted elbow length sleeves. So we'll see. 
Regency ballgown fabric. A steal at $2.50 a yard!
  1. I've been 'window' shopping for fabric for the Regency open robe that'll go over the ballgown, but haven't purchased anything yet.

Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Goals and Wishlists - 2014 Sewing

I was inspired by a post made over on A Girl Anachronism of her plan for HSF 2014. To keep herself on track, she listed a couple goal outfits and a couple wishlist outfits including what she already has in her wardrobe and what she would need. I decided this was a brilliant idea! Even though most of this is already scattered across my blog, I figured it'd be nice to get it all in one place. So without further ado:

First up, projects I'd like to finish:

Grey / silver, red and black bustle gown: What I have: Bodice vest (probably not that historically accurate, but it's one of my steampunk outfits so...) and an underskirt.
What I need: Wash overskirt.
Long term: New bodice. A parasol would be nice.

Sari Bustle Gown:
What I have: A cut out overskirt. Black underskirt I can use in a pinch. Lobster tail bustle.
What I need: Bodice. A better underskirt. 

Now for my 2014 goals:

Regency Ballgown
 What I have: Chemise. Partially finished stays.
What I need: Petticoat with straps. Ballgown. Open robe. Reticule.
Long term: A spencer or pelisse and chemisette so I can wear the dress as a day dress as well.

Eighteenth Century Jacket and Petticoat

What I have: Pretty much nothing. Stays are in progress, and I can always use my Regency chemise in a pinch.
What I need: Chemise. Bum pad (I'm going for more of a late 1780s-early 1790s look). Under petticoat. Jacket using a pattern from Nehelenia (I think, not 100% sure). Petticoat. Hat, probably a bergére

First on the list: Finishing the stays. Making the bum pad. Making the under petticoat.

Civil War Day Dress

What I have: Nothing.
What I need: Chemise (can use Regency one if I need to). Drawers. Corset. Hoops. Petticoat. Skirt and bodice, or a dress. Maybe a Swiss waist.

And my Wishlist projects

1890s Gown based on a photograph of my great great grandmother
What I have: nothing

What I need: Corset. Chemise and drawers. Petticoat. Bodice and skirt.

Civil War Ballgown
What I have: Well, as long as I finish the above Civil War goal, I'll have all the undergarments.
What I need: A ballgown. Or maybe just a ballgown bodice to wear with my day dress skirt. And probably a head dress of some sort.

Edwardian underthings
What I have: nothing
What I need: Chemise and drawers or combinations. Corset.

Monday, January 13, 2014

Planning my Historical Sew Fortnightly Sewing

Previously announced challenges and my plans:
  • #1: Make Do & Mend – due Wed 15 Jan. Regency spencer using fabric from another, unfinished project. Status: partially completed, needs lining, closures, hemmed, etc.
  • #2: Innovation - due Sat 1 Feb. No plan.
  • #3: Pink - due Sat 15 Feb.  Pink 18th century petticoat (aka skirt) to go with the 18th century stays I have in progress. I'd like to do linen if possible, either purchased in the right shade of pink to match my stays or dyed.
  • #4: Under it All – due Sat 1 March. Regency underthings. The chemise is already completed, and the short stays are coming along nicely I think. I'm also going to make a petticoat with straps, necessary since my planned ballgown will be rather sheer.
  • #5: Bodice - due Sat 15 March. Regency sleeveless spencer out of teal silk, hopefully handstitched.
  • #6: Fairytale – due Tue 1 April: Regency Cinderella.
  • #7: Tops & Toes – due Tue 15 April.  Bergere hat for my planned 18th century outfit. 
Newly announced challenges and my current thoughts on what to make:
  • #8: UFOs & PHDs – due Thur 1 May.  Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.  Check out the post from last year for more information on how to interpret this challenge. This might be finishing the Regency spencer. Or any of the other above challenges. Or my green sari asymmetrical overskirt that's been laying around for months.
  • #9: Black and White – due Thur 15 May.  Draw on the opposite ends of the shade spectrum to create something in black and white, or black or white. Black linen 18th century petticoat.
  • #10: Art – due Sun 1 June.  Make your own masterpiece based on a work of art. No idea.
  • #11: The Politics of Fashion – due Sun 15 June.  World affairs have both affected, and been affected by, fashions.  Craft something that demonstrates the interactions between dress and political history. No idea here either.
  • #12: Shape & Support – due Tue 1 July.  Make a garment that changes the silhouette of the human form through shaping and support. Hmmmm, maybe a Civil War corset? Or hoop? Or both?
  • #13: Under $10 – due Tue 14 July.  Whip up a fabulous item for under $10 (we’ll use US$ as the de-facto standard) This one will definitely take some major planning to stay under $10!
  • #14: Paisley & Plaid – due Fri 1 August.  Plaid is the most universal pattern, found in the textiles of almost all cultures and periods.  Paisley is more unique and recent, but has had a lasting impact on design.  Make something that utilises one or both of these patterns. No real idea yet, but there is some lovely plaid taffeta at the fabric store that I've been eyeing for months...I will probably try to make a plaid overskirt for my bustle gown wardrobe...
  • #15: The Great Outdoors – due Fri 15 August.  Get out into the weather and dirt with an item for outdoor pursuits. No firm ideas, but a friend suggested swimwear. Another thought I just had is a better Regency spencer than the one I'm working on, or a Regency pelisse.
  • #16: Terminology – due Mon 1 September.  Explore the etymology of fashion by make something defined in the Great Historical Fashion & Textile Glossary (new terminology posts and items will be added throughout the year). No real plan, but some ideas: balmoral petticoat, corselet / swiss waist, chemisette, pierrot jacket...leaning towards either a Swiss waist for Civil War dress or a pierrot jacket since a similar jacket is already on my to do list and it'd just be a matter of altering the pattern a little.
  • #17: Yellow - due Mon 15 September.  Embrace the sunny side with something in any shade of yellow. No real idea, but maybe something for the Civil War...
  • #18: Poetry in Motion - due Wed 1 October  Find inspiration for a garment in poetry and song.   No idea.
  • #19: HSF Inspiration - due Wed 15 October.  One of the best things about the HSF is seeing what everyone else creates, and using it to spark your own creativity.  Be inspired by one of the challengers item from HSF ’13 or HSF challenges 1-18 to make your own fabulous item. Another one that will have to wait, until I'm inspired by someone's work!
  • #20: Alternative Universe – due Sat 1 November.  Create a garment from an alternative universe: fantasy, steampunk, dieselpunk, etc.  Your item can be perfectly historically accurate within our own universe as well. A steampunk outfit, of course. Or maybe rococopunk. Or maybe I'll just wait to make my new black and gold corset and do it for this challenge.
  • #21: Re-do – due Sat 15 November.  Pick any previous challenge and re-do it (or do it for the first time).  It could be one that you didn’t finish, one that you wish you’d had more time for, or any time for, or one where you loved the theme so much you want to do it again. Probably more underthings, for either 18th century or Civil War.
  • #22: Fort-nightliers Choice – due Mon 1 December.  This one is up to you!  In June I’ll ask for suggestions for a theme, and we’ll vote to pick the one you most want to do as our 22nd Challenge of the year. Obviously, planning for this one will have to wait until we pick the challenge!
  • #23: Modern History – due Mon 15 December.  Make something historical or historically inspired that is wearable in an everyday context. Hmmm, maybe a 1940s dress or skirt...
  • #24: All that Glitters – due Thur 1 January.  Celebrate your completion of HSF ’14, and the New Year, with a glittery, glitzy, sparkly, shiny, something. Civil War ballgown. Maybe. 
Projects that I'd like to fit in somewhere:
  • 18th century jacket out of flocked cream and black taffeta 
  • Wash overskirt, grey and trimmed in black and red 
  • If I finish the asymmetrical overskirt, I'll need to make a bodice to match. 


Friday, January 10, 2014

Historical Sew Fortnightly and Other Historical Sewing Plans

So far, The Dreamstress has posted seven challenges for this year:

1. Make Do and Mend - I've been working on a Regency spencer made from an old project, but it's not turning out very well. I'm going to finish it, but doubt I'll post in on HSF

2. Innovation

3. Pink - I have a couple ideas rolling around in my head right now, mainly because I need something to wear to a party on Feb 14, the day before this is due. lol  Idea #1: 1920s dress, either the Vionnet 20 minute dress on Reconstructing History or the Magic Dance Frock from Dressmaking Research. Idea #2: A pink 18th century petticoat that would match my stays I'm working on. I'm leaning toward this idea, but I worry that I don't have time to finish the stays before the event, let along the hip pads or pocket hoops I'd need as well. And probably a little pink shrug or something as well. (Will work as a rococopunk outfit that way!)

4. Under it All - Still going to be my Regency underthings, which are coming along well.

5. Bodice - Still planning on the teal silk sleeveless spencer.

6. Fairytale - White Regency ballgown with some type of blue open robe for my version of Cinderella.

7. Tops and Toes - Probably a bergère hat

Other Historical Sewing, that I can hopefully work into a yet unannounced HSF challenge:

1. 18th century jacket out of cream and black flocked taffeta with a black petticoat. This is what I'd wear the
bergère with. I'll also need to finishe my stays and make the chemise and underpetticoat as well, plus hip pads or pocket hoops if I haven't already made them. I'll need this by July, my historical costuming group is planning a Bastille Day picnic.

2. I'd love to get some more accurate bustle era things done as well, because said group will also be doing Bustling Through the Park events, probably in the spring and the fall. Maybe my wash overskirt...

3. Civil War, with all the appropriate underthings. Maybe by the fall, my mother and I will be going on vacation to see some Civil War sites, it'd be fun to go in dress.