When Last We Saw Our Sewing Heroine...

...she needed to spend her weekend sewing (1) a corset (2) a bustle (3) a shrug and also (4) test run new costumes.

(1) The corset is coming along nicely. It's boned (I used cable ties and lighter plastic both), has a zipper, and the lining is put together. I need to stitch the lining in, finish the edges with the bias tape I bought, put on the trimmings, put in the eyelets, make a little watch pocket and sew it on and sew on a D ring or two. I'm even putting in bra cups because otherwise I would have had to take in the bust.

Wow that sounds like a lot...

(2) The bustle is DONE. Just need to play with the ties a little bit.

(3) The shrug is also DONE and fits fine

(4) I haven't tried on the pink and white underwear yet, and I'm also gonna need to try out  the new steam stripper.

And I need to PACK! The convention is a week from tomorrow. A WEEK!!!! (Yes, I am in pre-con panic mode, thank you for asking lol)

And now...for some costume porn!

This is my first overbust corset.

One half of the corset done, including boning

Eyelets, d rings, bra cups, boning and bias tape? Must be corset making time!

And the finished Lobster Tail bustle!

In other news, I went fabric shopping the other day. I picked up some quick dry performance knit (running clothes), a yard of white Swiss dot to go with the blue I have in my stash for a new dress, and some teal taffeta for an underskirt to go with my Pink Paris jacket and overskirt. I went shopping with a new client, so I have the stuff for her commission as well.

Weekend To Do List Progress

Fabric shopping was a success. Miss Von Stoup has our uniform fabric to prewash and I bought pretty much everything on my list. However I could not find coral fabric for my Persian vest. I'll keep a lookout, maybe something will show up. Or I could use another color, but since the buttons are already coral I feel that the trim should match.

I worked on Rachel's corset a little bit, sewed the shoulders of the white / denim together and started sewing the inside and the outside together. While working on sewing the inside and outside together, my machine died. With the corset stuck under the needle. Looks like I'll be making a trip to the "doctor's" office on Monday after work. EDIT - Got the corset unstuck and used Miss Dashwood's machine to finish putting it together. All that's left is a little hand sewing and the eyelets.

Steamnun: I picked up thread, the top pattern and elastic. I cut out the tunic and put it together. I just basted the shoulder seams because it has a facing that goes in before you sew those seams. Now all she needs to do is try it on to see how it fits! I also put the facing together and finished the bottom edge. I put together the drape (out of the red shade of cotton) - cut the two yards in half along the fold, sewed the two pieces together along the short edge, hemmed both ends and one side since the other side already has a finished selvage edge. All that's left is to finish the tunic and put the skirt together.

Persian Steampunk: The lining is put together and taken in along the necessary seams, so that's done. I attempted to dye my silk faille, but it didn't take very well -- the fade lines still show. Sigh. I'll probably give it another try before giving up, maybe I'll put the skirt together first and then see how it looks before trying to dye it again. I may also try the stove top method instead of using the washing machine on the second try. Even though I can't do much on the vest since I don't have the silk for the pocket facings yet, I did some stay stitching and put the back together.

The Captain's hooded vest is repaired. It was a bit tricky and I'm not sure how long it'll hold as the fabric is fraying but I did my best and used some Fray Check so hopefully it'll stay for a little while at least. So half of the Captain's alterations are finished!

I also worked on my Ottoman bustle, using my beau's mother's dress form to drape it. However, I can't stitch it together yet because I lack the appropriate color thread.

And tomorrow after work, I drop off my beloved Fern at the sewing machine repair shop.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

MARCon Preparations Begin...

They've already begun but I figured I might as well start posting them under Marcon prep.

Work on my Ottoman vest continues. I now have two lines of silver thread couched around the outside with enough space inbetween for me to put a line of pink, probably in a nice chain stitch. I'm starting a third line of silver that will be a couple inches above the other two, allowing space for a nice wide border, which is all I really plan to have completed by Marcon.

The fabric for my new bustle has been washed so that'll be ready for me to work on once the Joker is finished.

Speaking of, I really should have worked on the Joker tonight, but I'm feeling a bit under the weather and sitting on the couch embroidering was much easier than working on the Joker trousers. I plan to finish the trousers tomorrow, except for the hem and maybe the waistband closures since I need my beau for the former and would like his opinion on the latter.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Corset Commission 3 + a Bustle Decision

First off, Bob's fitting last evening went well. The corset fits fine. He expressed concerns about the strength of the fabric so we decided to line it with left over muslin to give it some more structure. I was thinking of cutting the muslin tonight, but was much too tired for it when I finally arrived back at the Shuttle around 10 pm.

To do list for Bob's Corset
1. Cut out the muslin lining.
2. Put the lining together.
3. Stitch the lining to the outside along the bottom.
4. Sew lining to outside along seams, center front and center back, creating boning channels.
5. Insert boning.
6. Sew lining to the outside along the top.
7. Put in the eyelets.
8. Lace!

Secondly, I have finally decided what I am going to do for my new Harley Quinn bustle. I was contemplating purchasing a pattern, but I really feel that I can tackle this one myself. As of now, my plan is to use my standard Victorian underskirt / petticoat pattern (a discontinued Simplicity pattern). I'll shorten it like I did for the HQ petticoat and underskirt and add boning at the back. There are Youtube videos showing how to use the pattern I was planning on purchasing, so I can use that as a reference when making the boning channels and when putting the boning in. I'm thinking of using cable ties for the boning. And I'll probably put a few more bones in than the pattern calls for, so there's more support. I'll have to change it from a back closure to a side closure but I think that will be relatively easy. I plan to purchase white muslin for it, figure that's the cheapest route to go. Might even get the extra wide stuff. And I'm also thinking of putting ruffles on the back, over the bones. But that's a maybe.

So that's gonna be a little bit of a project. I'll probably put the ruffle on the petticoat first, much easier to handle.

Tomorrow I plan to add a hook and eye to my uniform then tackle the fun and exciting world of corsetry!

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Ohayocon Prep 25

First of all, it looks like there's going to be some changes in my sewing plans over the next few weeks. Miss Dashwood's Catwoman costume is still on (details below) but my beau has decided that he would prefer that I make my Imperial Officer costume instead of finishing his Joker. However, the party that the IO uniform would be for is on the same day as Miss Dashwood's birthday celebration so honestly at this moment, I am unaware of what exactly I will be working on between now and Ohayocon (which is 26 days away, by the way).

Last night, Miss Stoup and I had a sewing night while our respective significant others watched movies. I helped her with understanding the directions for her costume and she got the bodice mainly constructed. I worked on Miss Dashwood's bustle belt. I cut out the belt, adding a seam allowance to the pattern that I made last week, and sewed the two pieces together along the scalloped bottom. Then I clipped all the points and corners, turned the belt and then pinned the top edge under and sewed the belt together along that edge as well. Next was top stitching the scallops and the ends so everything is consistent. Unable to work on pockets or the front closure without Miss Dashwood's input, I started on the bustle portion. The bottom ruffle went on first -- 24" (twice the width of the scallop opening the bustle covers) x 6" (long enough to come below the bottom of the belt). I finished the edges, then put a gathering stitch along the top and gathered the ruffle down to cover the scallop. That ruffle was stitched down and then I started on the next ruffle. It was about 18" long, but I guessed the width and never measured it. It's probably around 4" wide. Again the edges were finished, the top was gathered and the ruffle was stitched down. Unfortuneately, I accidentally put the gathering thread (which is gold) on the top of the ruffle so I need to remove it before I stitch on the last ruffle, which is about 12" by 3". I finished the edges and plan to gather it and stitch it down today. EDIT I took out the stitching on ruffle #2, then gathered and stitched down ruffle #3. I really can't do anything else without Miss Dashwood (the next step I want to do is the snaps on the front, which I need her for). I have some of the fabric with me so I may cut out pockets either tonight or tomorrow during work.

At a stopping point on Miss Dashwood's costume, I pulled out my beau's quilt and finished stitching the blocks into rows. Next up is ironing before I stitch the rows together into a quilt top.
EDIT I ironed all seven rows and sewed the top two together. They're in my bag to take to my beau's this evening so I may work on them there.

I haven't worked on my HQ mask yet, but that is next on my list to do today. EDIT - I shortened the dowel rod I purchased for the mask's handle and painted it red. The paint dried a little spotty so I'm going to wrap it in ribbon. At least with the paint underneath no wood will show. I also tried on the costume and it looks fantastic. I'll definitely need help with getting into it - I don't like the way I bustled it so I'll need help with that. I need to sew a hook onto my costume for the mask when I don't want to carry it. That'll probably go on the side of the jacket near the bottom. Its in my bag to do at work tomorrow.

What I'd like to do today -
1. Finish my HQ mask - EDIT worked on it
2. Do everything I can on Catwoman without Miss Dashwood's input (she's visiting her beau this weekend) - EDIT pretty much did this
3. Iron and sew the rows into a quilt top - EDIT ironed and started sewing the rows together

A bientot

Miss Leah J Wilde
Steam-stress of the Airship Archon

Ohayocon Prep 24

Well, as you noticed from the postscript on my last post, I have hit full panic mode. Ohayocon is less than a month away and I still have all of Miss Dashwood's items and most of my beau's to complete! I managed to generate enough calm yesterday to compile an extensive, detailed to do list, including time estimates for each item. I'm guessing that I need about three weeks to complete everything, which gives me an extra few days before the convention to finish up any last minute issues. I'm still in panic mode but I feel slightly better.

Yesterday, I finished stitching in the lining on the tails of the Joker tailcoat. I would have done more, but then realized that I needed to discuss the interior pockets with my beau before I did anything with them. And I cannot put in the lining of the body until the pockets are taken care of. I also probably need to buy buttons and do the buttonholes -- I'm leaning towards bound because I don't think stitched buttonholes would work well on the corduroy -- before the lining goes in. I may be able to do the buttonholes after the lining. It'll take some thought to figure that one out.

I also discussed Miss Dashwood's utility belt and bustle with her. She suggested and I agreed that an all in one option would work best. I sketched out some ideas, she approved one and I worked out a pattern on newspaper. Unfortunately, I was unable to start on the belt / bustle because I still have not prewashed the fabric. That is on my list of things to do today.

I'm rather bored at work today -- I have no hand sewing projects to work on. I have contemplated hand basting the underlining and trouser fabric together, but think that it would be too tedious to handle today. I'm entertaining that as a last resort.

What I hope to accomplish this weekend:
1. Finish my HQ mask. I need to shorten, paint and attach the handle to the mask.
2. Add a loop or a hook to my costume for the mask to hang from when I'm not holding it.
3. I also need to try on my completed costume to see if any changes need to be made.

4. Prewash the fabric for Catwoman.
5. At least cut out the pattern for the belt and the bustle ruffles.

6. Talk to my beau about all the questions I have about his costume.
7. Go button / tie fabric / vest lining shopping with my beau.
8. Buttons and buttonholes on the jacket.
9. Interior pockets on the jacket.
10. Finish sewing in the jacket lining.
11. See if beau approves of the lapel. If he does, sew the lapels on and stitch in the lining to finish the edges.
12. Finish sleeves with either a hand stitched hem or a faux fur cuff to match the lapels.
13. Baste together the underlining and fabric for the trousers.

This is just a vague to do list. I may actually leave the lining of the tailcoat until next week because I can work on it during the day while I'm at work. If I do that, I'll be working more on the trousers this weekend.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde
Steam-stress of the Airship Archon

Ohayocon Prep 21

Non sewing related crafting alert! I finished my beau's gift and wrapped it last night! I'm ready for Christmas now!

In Ohayocon news, I started cutting out my beau's Joker jacket yesterday, using the muslin for the front and back pattern pieces. Actually, I cut it all out. There was a brief moment of panic when I thought that I wouldn't have enough fabric for the outside of the jacket, but thankfully I was able to get everything cut out. Just barely. I added to both sides of the jacket front (along the front and along the side seam) so it should close now. Hopefully.

I also cut out the lining. Which also caused a little panic, and the jacket back will need some creative sewing because there's just a pinch missing from the side seams, but it should be okay. Cutting out the front lining was interesting. The way the pattern works is that there is a collar facing that is the visible part of the collar when the jacket is worn. (We're thinking of using some fake fur for this actually). So the entire front of the jacket did not need to be lined. I pulled out the collar facing piece and laid it on top of the front piece to see what exactly needed to be lined. I then folded back the collar and cut the lining omitting that section. Hopefully it will work. Although now that I'm thinking about it, maybe I should have just left it, then if we decide against the fur, the collar could have been the lining fabric. Oh well, c'est la vie. I used a bit of the left over lining fabric to cut out pockets for the inside of the jacket, as well as pieces to finish the opening of the pockets.

I still need to cut out the collar facing and the cuffs, probably out of fake fur as previously mentioned. So that is probably the next step, or I may just start putting the jacket together. I would love to have the jacket and lining ready for hand sewing this weekend. My beau and I are going out of town to his grandfather's home and I'm worried about keeping myself occupied while we're there. And we're going to need to go button shopping.

I worked on my mask yesterday but hit a small problem -- the backing is a touch larger than the outside in a couple places. And of course, I discovered this after I had already covered it. I think I'm just going to let it be, afterall, what are the chances that someone will be looking that closely at my mask? Maybe I'll add a bit of trim to cover up my mistakes.

The fabric for Miss Dashwood's bustle and utility belt is in my sewing bag today. I'm planning to prewash it on my lunch break because its rather stiff. I'm hoping to get some sketches done over the weekend so we can get started on her things next week.

That's it for today!

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Ohayocon and Christmas Prep 13 EDITED

Finally started sewing together my twin's pajama pants. All the seams are done and I started pinning the waistband, but did not finish it as I was extremely fatigued. So it'll just be a matter of pinning then sewing the waistband and threading elastic through. The hemming will wait until after he tries them on.

On Friday, I sewed the hook and eye closure onto the underskirt waistband then sewed four hooks on as well, to attach the bustle. I sewed four hooks onto the bustle so that it can now attach to the skirt, and sewed all of the roman shade tape into place.

Last night I got a lot done on my HQ jacket. I sewed the lining together and fitted it, the only change I had to make was taking in the back seam a little. It's not terrible form fitting, but I don't think I want it to be. I'm even debating boning it at the moment. My next step was to sew the interlining to all of the jacket pieces. Once that was finished, I started putting the pieces together -- the front peplum was sewn to the front, the center back seam was sewed, etc. Then I worked on the back peplum. I'm using both the pattern piece that goes with the rest of the jacket and the peplum from another pattern (used for my Time Traveler bodice as well as my black and silver plaid creation). I love the effect of the layered peplum. I lined each peplum piece (sewn on three sides, corners trimmed, then turned), pleated the top peplum and stitched them together. I'm going to attempt to sew them all together today, but I doubt that my beau's mother's machine can handle it. While it is a rather nice machine, it is a new model and just does not have the durability that my Fern has, being an all metal machine that dates from decades ago.

I'm trying to decide if I want to trim the jacket, maybe with white braid or ribbon, or if I'll just topstitch it to hold the lining in place. Decisions decisions.

Part of my day yesterday was spent with my beau as well as Dr. Chronus and Miss Von Stoup. We went to the fabric store in search of something to use for my beau's Joker costume, pants fabric to be exact. The doctor pointed out a lining fabric that was purple and grey/white striped. We tried it with the other fabrics, and decided that it was a perfect fit. Since its lining and thus very lightweight, I'm going to back it with a heavy 100% cotton to give it the proper weight for pants. I prewashed all the fabrics for his costume when we arrived at his dwelling last evening and plan to work on the cutting out today. Actually my plan to to cut out and baste together a muslin of the jacket for fitting purposes. I already cut apart the pattern pieces.

I may start doing a daily update of my to do list...

Christmas
1. Parents' aprons - DONE!
2. Stacey's pajama pants - DONE at least til she can try them on
3. Cliff's pajama pants - started sewing, needs waistband finished and elastic put in

Harley Quinn
1. Petticoat - DONE!
2. Bustle - DONE!
3. Corset - DONE!
4. Underskirt - DONE!
5. Jacket - started construction, need to finish putting the outside together, figure out the front closures, attach the lining, insert the boning (if I decide to bone), finish putting in the lining by hand, sew on trimming (if I decide to trim), and finish the front closures with button holes and buttons
6. Top Hat
7. Purse

And...
1. Steampunk Joker for my beau - vest, tailcoat and pants, maybe a tie. All fabric and most patterns have been purchased (still need a vest pattern, may be able to use the one I used for the Captain's vest, if not, I'll have to purchase one). All fabric has been prewashed. The next step is ironing the fabric and starting work on the tailcoat. EDIT Fabric pictures are below.
2. Steampunk Catwoman for Miss Dashwood - bustle, utility belt and shirt
3. Helping with Poison Ivy and Mr Freeze - whatever they need

The tailcoat, it photographed a little blue, but the color is definitely purple:



The tailcoat lining (orange and purple) is on the left, the vest fabric (green and purple) is on the right:



The trousers (underlining of white cotton, purple striped for the trousers themselves and the pattern I'm using):



A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Christmas and Ohayocon Prep 11

I still have not worked on my brother's pajamas. I keep forgetting to carry them inside from the car. I think there's also this idea in my head that I have plenty of time to finish them because Christmas is still a few weeks away and they won't take long. I need to get this idea out of my head and finish them, I'd rather have them done than be rushing to finish them at the last minute.

Progress on HQ --

Corset: I took out the zipper and adjusted the fabric. Thankfully, there was plenty of diamond print to work with -- I'd turned under almost an inch on each edge! I basted it yesterday at work and tried it on when I got home. And it fits pretty perfectly now. All that's left to do is actually sew in the zipper properly, take out the basting and trim it with red ribbon.

Bustle: I stitched red ribbon along both layers of the bustle. And pinned the roman shade tape into place on the underside for bustling purposes. The ribbon was a bit tricky, as it is very narrow. I decided to do a stitch right down the middle of the ribbon, and used a long underneath, short on top stitch pattern in red thread. I think it worked out quite well.

Underskirt: I sewed the waistband on and pinned the polyester braid yesterday at work. Last night at home, I finished the hem and tried on the skirt to see where the closure needs to go.

I actually tried on everything I've been working on (albeit with the aid of pins to hold a few things in place). And it looks good. The apron needed some adjustment, so I took out about two and half inches of the seam where the front connects to the side. I'm planning on gathering that seam so that the apron is a better length and lays better.

In my sewing basket today --
Corset: to finish the zipper and trim in red ribbon
Bustle: hook and eyes to fasten to the underskirt and roman shade tape
Apron: gather the side seams and finish them, trim in red ribbon
Underskirt: hook and eyes to close the skirt and to fasten the bustle to

I really want to start on the jacket, but I should finish all the little things first so that is my plan. Once all the little stuff listed above is finished, I can move on to the jacket and then the hat and purse (decided against the pockets) and then once that's finished I can move on to my beau's Joker costume.

I think everything is coming along quite swimmingly, don't you my dearest dear readers?

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

EDIT - The bustle apron is finished! While at work today: I pleated and finished the side seams with red and white striped bias. I tried the gathering first but it laid funny so I had to take it all apart and start again. I think (hope) that it'll be fine now. Then I sewed two snaps onto the apron back for it to fasten close. I usually use hooks and eyes but felt like trying something new and different this time to see how it works. And last of all, I sewed red ribbon along the hem. Again, I used a short on top, long on bottom stitch, but they're a little closer together than on the bustle because the curve of the apron wouldn't allow for longer spaces between stitches like the straight edges of the bustle did. And that's all from me for today -- I got called in to work my second job this evening so no more sewing for me today.

Christmas and Ohayocon Prep 10

Well, I was a little bit naughty last night -- I ignored my Christmas sewing for Harley Quinn.

I finished cutting out my HQ jacket, so I now have both sides ready, one black, one red (fingers crossed that it goes together like its supposed to, but if not at least I have plenty of extra fabric!). I also cut out the muslin interlining and red broadcloth lining for the body of the jacket. I plan to leave the sleeves unlined.

Then I put together the skirt and it turned out just like it should have. Oh botheration, I just realized that I wanted to put pockets in the skirt and I forgot. And I finished all the seams already. Hmmmm wonder if I can pick a couple apart to put in a pocket? I should be able to... I used a sort of flat felled seam on all the seams (except the center front because it was the selvage and won't ravel) -- just turned under the seam allowance towards each other and used a zigzag to hold it together. I did not stitch it to the garment because I did not want visible stitching on this skirt. After finishing the seams, I stitched together two left over bits of red quilt binding and made the waistband. I sewed it to the outside of the skirt, gathering the back where it will sit over the bustle pillow and pinned it on the inside for me to hand sew today at work.

In my sewing basket today --
1. HQ skirt: hand stitch waistband on, pin polyester horsehair braid to the hem and maybe rip out part of a couple seams for pockets
2. HQ bustle: to start sewing on red ribbon
3. HQ corset: when trying it on for a photo last night, I realized that its a little small. I'm going to see if I can take out the zipper and either reposition it or add a tiny bit of fabric so that the corset fits better. The bottom fits okay, but the top is rather snug and crushes instead of enhancing my bosom. Its also rather uncomfortable to think of wearing for more than a few minutes.

I'd like to get all of the above finished today and then work on Cliff's pajama pants. I'll feel much better when they're out of the way.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Christmas and Ohayocon Prep 7

What I did yesterday --

Pinned together all my corset pieces, so they're ready for the sewing machine! Basted the zipper into the lining so I can fit it. I put the zipper in backwards so that the seams will be exposed, making it easier for me to take in the corset where it needs to be altered.

Pinned and sewed together the pieces of my bustle. I also cut a strip of white sateen to finish off the raw edge. That was pinned and sewed as well, just needs hand stitched into place.

Finished the edges where the apron front connects to the apron back. I used bias cut from left over red and white stripes from my parents' aprons. This was all hand stitched into place, then tacked down under the apron front at the ends. I also hand stitched the lace trim onto the hem of the apron.

I'm going to need to purchase some ribbon -- I only have a little bit of what I was going to use so it either needs to be matched and more bought, or I need to find something else to use entirely.

All in all, I feel that everything is coming along quite swimmingly. Once the bustle and corset are finished, I'll move on to my brother's pajamas and then it will be back to working on HQ to finish the jacket, skirt and top hat.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Pictures of Harley Quinn!

Yeah picture time!

Here's my petticoat when it was almost finished --



And here's a close up of the hem with the polyester braid pinned before sewing --



And a close up of my pretty red waistband --




And now for the bustle!! Here's the apron, with lace pinned on --



And here's the two pieces of the bustle waiting to be sewn back together --



And a close up of the lace on the bustle --




Now, for the corset!

Basting the zipper into the lining --



And a picture of the diamonds and the interlining --

Christmas and Ohayocon Prep 6

Hello my dear readers on this lovely Monday morning! Its warmed up here a bit, so much nicer than the chilly-ness of recent days.

First of all, I purchased fabric for my brother's pajama pants. I plan to wash it today and get those finished this week.

Secondly - My HQ Corset: I pinned and sewed all of the lining together. I did a quick fitting and it fits pretty well. I need to put the zipper in (which I bought yesterday) and put on the undergarments that I'm most likely to wear with it to get a good fit before I start pinning and altering the corset. The interlining was pinned and basted to the diamonds, so its all set to go!

Thirdly - My HQ Bustle: My first step was the lining. Part of the bustle (which is a 45 inch square) was lined in left over diamonds and the rest with white sateen. Basically there's a wide strip of sateen down two sides. I purchased some petticoat net for the inside (it gives the bustle more body and ability to drape pretty) and sewed that to the wrong side of the lining, then sewed the lining to the outside. I sewed all four sides of my square except for about nine inches which I left open to turn it right side out. Then I pinned and topstitched all the way around, closing the turning opening. I went to iron the square and fold it to form the bustle shape I wanted and realized that I had messed up -- the lining and the outside weren't the exact same size (despite my efforts to make them so) so the bustle would not lay right.

As you can imagine, I was quite perturbed. Instead of crying (which was my immediate reaction), I tried a few fix its and when none of them work, I grabbed my scissors. I cut along the diagonal crease where I had attempted to iron it straight and then ironed each piece from the sewn edges towards the open end. With all the extra fabric at the open edge, I basted the opening closed. My plan is to sew the two together and then use bias to conceal the raw edges. This will also give me the waistband that I need for hooks and eyes so that the bustle can attach to the skirt. I also trimmed the edges with some white lace (from the stash my beau's mother gave me) and plan to tack on some red ribbon by hand. I plan to repeat this trimming of lace and ribbon on the apron and probably on the corset as well.

All in all, not a bad weekend. Oh I also cleaned my chamber at the Companions' Shuttle so that I can decorate for the holidays. Which I plan to do this evening when I get home!

Update on my to do list --

Christmas
1. Parents' aprons - DONE!
2. Stacey's pajama pants - DONE at least til she can try them on
3. Cliff's pajama pants - fabric purchased, needs washed and sewn

Harley Quinn
1. Petticoat - DONE!
2. Bustle - need to sew the two pieces together, add a waistband, sew on red ribbon trim and sew on hooks and eyes
3. Corset - need to tack the zipper in so I can properly fit the lining, then start constructing the corset including boning
4. Underskirt
5. Jacket - I'm changing the pattern because I realized that another pattern already in my stash works better than majorly changing the same pattern I used for my polanaise. It is the right length and already has a peplum instead of me having to add a peplum from another pattern.
6. Top Hat

And...
1. Steampunk Joker for my beau - vest, jacket and pants, maybe a tie
2. Steampunk Catwoman for Miss Dashwood - bustle, utility belt and shirt
3. Helping with Poison Ivy and Mr Freeze - whatever they need

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Christmas and Ohayocon Prep 5

Greetings to my dearest readers on this chilly autumn morning. The weather just makes me want to curl up in bed with a good book and a good man or stay at home, all cuddly in pajamas and a robe and sew all day. Alas, I am at work and will spend my day in a chilly office (our heater isn't working right, thankfully I have a space heater under my desk or I'd be a Leah-sicle) instead of sewing like I'd prefer.

Now for my update on Christmas and Ohayocon preparations!

First off - I finished my HQ petticoat!

Secondly - I threaded the elastic through the casing of my beloved sister in law pajama pants so they are finished for the time being. A fitting is required to completely finish them after all.

With Christmas presents well in hand, I pulled out the next fabric and patterns for my HQ and started cutting! Out of my diamond patterned cotton I cut out the bustle apron and my new corset. I also cut all the corset pattern pieces out of white sateen (for the lining) and muslin (for the interlining). The back of the bustle apron was cut out of muslin and white sateen. It won't show (it'll be under the actual bustle) so I didn't want to waste my diamond on it when I need what's left of the diamonds to line part of the bustle. I believe the bustle is going to end up partially lined in diamonds and partially in sateen.

With everything cut out, I started a little sewing. The apron sides where pinned and sewn to the apron front. Then I pinned the two pieces of the apron back together but did not have the chance to sew them before I had to leave the Companions' Shuttle to meet my beloved adopted sister for food and libations (and talking of course). I did have the time to pull out my iron and our tiny ironing board and iron all of the corset pieces, 36 total pieces I believe -- six pattern pieces, three fabrics and two of each pattern piece.

In my sewing basket today -- All my corset pieces so I can pin them together for sewing. I'll pin the lining together so it can be sewn and used as a fitting tool. The diamonds and the interlining will be pinned so that each piece of diamonds is backed by muslin and sewn together before I construct the corset. I also have all of my bustle pieces so I can get them cut and pinned together so the bustle can be constructed.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Christmas and Ohayocon Prep 4

Well my dear readers, my HQ petticoat is almost complete! Tuesday I handstitched on the waistband (I particularly like the red waistband with the black and white stripes!) and pinned the polyester braid to the hem. Last night, I sewed on the polyester braid and finished the hem. All that's left to do is sew on the closure at the waistband!

I also cut out my HQ bustle. It's my own design, so fingers crossed it works! I plan to have a standard two part bustle - the actual bustle and the front apron drape. I discovered that the print of my fabric is not perfect (aka not straight) and I'm hoping that the slight deviations don't negatively impact my outfit.

Last night after working on my petticoat, I cut out the flannel for my sister in law's pajama pants. I had to take off a couple inched of length to get the pattern to fit -- the fabric apparently shrunk when I washed it. I then sewed them together (side seam, inside leg seam then crotch seam) and put in the elastic casing for the waistband. All I plan to do at this point is thread the elastic through and leave it to be sized to her. I'm also leaving them unhemmed -- she's rather tiny in the height department so I'd much rather have her try them on and pin the hem than try to guess how long they need to be.

In my sewing basket today - (1) HQ petticoat and closure (2) pajama pants and elastic and (3) the fabric for my corset and bustle -- I probably won't cut it out at work, but I might do it on lunch so I figured I'd bring it.

That's all for today!

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

PS - I took some photos of my petticoat yesterday but forgot the cords to post them via my work computer. I have failed you yet again, Miss Dashwood.

Mid Ohio Con / TeslaCon Prep

Last week I worked on sketching and planning out both my next steampunk creation and my Imperial Officer / Juno Eclipse uniform. I've got patterns and pattern modifications planned out and sketches of what I want to do. Right now I'm trying to decide if I can make the jacket of my steampunk outfit out of spandex with the matching underskirt out of a different fabric but the same color. I'd like the stretch in the jacket (and I already have the fabric) but don't want a knit skirt. By the way, the two will be separated by a patterned bustle.

What I did this weekend -

1. Finished my Harley Quinn hat, classic version. It took some work cuz the jester pieces just weren't the right shape and size but I finally got them right, stuffed and hand sewn onto the hat. Then I hand stitched gathered lace pompoms onto the ends. My beau thinks I should add bells, we'll see. I would like to get the bra section sewn in - I originally cut out lining for the top of the suit, and had pinning bra cups into the lining, planning to hand stitch them in. I recently sewed the bra cups into place and now all I need to do is hand stitch the lining into the suit and I won't have to wear a bra under it (which always shows).

2. Worked on my beau's new RFT shirt, using a few tutorials found online. Cut the backs out of two shirts, made them into rectangles, stitched along the sides and the top, turned it right side out, stitched the bottom closed (then had to open the bottom and redo the sides because the bib was too wide), stitched one side of the bib to the shirt, then started sewing snaps on the other side. The plan is to sew about three more snaps down the side, maybe one or two at the top and put either a snap or a hook and eye where the top button used to be - this will hold the shirt close and hold the bib in place.

3. Worked on Captain LaGrange's spats. I used his old pair as a pattern and added seam allowances when I cut out the white canvas. I then used the canvas as the pattern to cut out the red and black brocade lining. I sewed all the seams of both sides (had to redo one of the canvas pieces because I put it in upside down), clipped the curves, ironed the seams flat, then stitched the lining to the outside along the top and bottom. Next I pinned in the seam allowances on the sides and top stitched all around in black thread. All that's left is removing the buttons from the old spats, sewing buttonholes on the new spats and sewing the buttons onto the new spats. Oh and sewing elastic across the bottoms.

So my to do list right now for this week is --
1. Spats for my captain - buttons, buttonholes and elastic.
2. Finishing my Harley Quinn - bra.
3. New Rebel Trooper shirt for my beau - snaps and hook and eye.
4. A wrap to go with Queen Gorgo - planning to just buy some muslin and tearing the sides so it matches the dress. No sewing required.
5. Velcro on a tshirt for my beau.

Other things on my to do list --
6. Hemming my beau's kilt.
7. Imperial Officer uniform for myself, definitely won't be done for Mid Ohio Con.
8. Next steampunk costume.
10. And of course, there are Christmas presents to be made. I'll probably actually tackle these before I start on the next costumes for myself.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

And the sewing continues...

Last night I took in a jersey for a friend. Then I worked on my Halloween costume, which is coming along just swimmingly. :) The top is pretty much done, just need to figure out what I'm doing with the sleeves. The pattern calls for elastic but I'm tempted to leave them kinda poofy... I used 1/4 inch elastic along the top and 1/2 non roll elastic along the bottom. I thought it'd be better to hold the top down while I'm moving around. All that's left to do on the skirt is hand sewing on snaps and hooks and eyes. I tried the bottom layer idea I had and didn't like the way it turned out, so I just hemmed the second layer of the bustle and called it done.

So all I have to do is (1) figure out the sleeves and either hem them or put elastic in (2) hand sew closures on the skirt and (3) make the underbust corset. I'm also planning to make a little choker necklace to wear as well.

That's all for now, a bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Sewing Project Updates

Wow, its been a month since I last posted. I really need to be better about this blog.

1 - Princess Leia: Fully lined. Figured out how to do the hem but haven't done it yet. When I went to do the collar however, I realized that I messed up the neckline. I plan to add a piece so that the neckline fits correctly even though it will destroy my chances of using this costume to join the Rebel Legion, but I'm okay with that - I only planned to join because I figured why not just go ahead and join if the dress met their specs. So to finish I need to - fix the neckline, do the collar and hem the dress.

2 - Still need to do a hat for my Harley Quinn costume.

3 - Started my Halloween costume. I'm layering a sheer sparkle organza in a light green over a darker green satin. It looks beautiful but the layering process is a little annoying -- I cut two of each pattern piece - one satin, one organza. Then they're basted together along the edges to be used as one piece of fabric. Not a complicated process, just a bit time consuming. I have part of the skirt done, just need to do the bustle part of it and hem the front apron. Then I still have the blouse and the underbust corset (white pleather lined with muslin and boned) to finish. Hopefully neither will take too long. I promise to take and post some pictures so everyone can see the pretty pretty fabrics I'm using.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

50s wrap dress update

wHello darlings!

Last night I actually started on sewing my oh so adorable 50s wrap dress. It went together amazingly easily. The first step was to pin and sew the darts in the front and back bodice. I'm not going to lie to you dear readers - I hate darts. They're rather fussy with their placement and annoying to pin and sew. But they do make a garment fit so I suffered through sewing eight of them - yes EIGHT darts: three on each side of the front and two on the back. After sewing the darts, I sewed the two pieces of the overskirt together along the back seam, then sewed the skirt to the back bodice. The next step was to sew the front to the back at the shoulders, then I did a quick fitting. I looked the pattern up on a pattern review website and several people said they had issues with the fit, but Miss Dashwood and I agreed that no alteration was necessary. I was actually rather surprised considering I do not possess the desired silhouette of the early 1950s. In other words, I'm not very chesty. I do however possess hips that would make a non-curvy girl sigh in envy if she was in that era. My next step was to cut several strips of bias from the purple calico. I wanted to follow the pattern and use purchased bias but I could not find a good color and decided instead to just make my own. I pinned one strip to the dress - started at the hem of the underdress, up around the armhole and down the front of the overdress. I have the other side, plus the neckline to do. Then of course comes stitching the bias into place.

Other projects I worked on last night -
1. I finished modifying a bustle I made Miss Dashwood several months ago. She was uncomfortable wearing it with a bustle pillow so I took out the top piece that would set atop such a pillow and resewed the ribbon ties along the top ruffle. She seems rather pleased with it.
2. In preparation for a pirate themed event this weekend, I pulled out a cream colored cropped blouse (its actually part of a Bavarian drindl). The elastic at the bottom of the blouse has failed over the years - after all the blouse is older than I - so I removed a few stitches in the casing, snipped the elastic and pulled it out. I then checked my supplied and was unable to find narrow enough elastic but I did have elastic cord. So I threaded the cord through the circle at the end of a large safety pin and fed the doubled cord through the casing on the blouse. I tried it on, adjusted the cord, knotted it and snipped it. Viola, the blouse is now ready to be worn this weekend! I'm thinking of just pairing it with cream bloomers and a red sash. Don't know what shoes to wear though...

Things I need to do - (1) hem Mary's pants after I get matching thread (2) take in Miss Dashwood's dress (3) finish my retro dress (4) make outfits for the Misses Dashwood and Van Eycke. I've also got a couple Christmas gifts in the works - a quilt for my beau that I've started cutting fabric for and aprons for my parents that I've purchased fabric for. EDIT (5) I still need to finish my clockwork gypsy skirt. I'll be taking a lot of sewing to my beau's this weekend to work on, won't I?

Sew much to do! Sew little time!

A bientot, mes amis!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Marcon prep #6

1. Sewed the silver satin buttons onto my black and silver bodice. 13 buttons down one side. The 14th button was (1) messed up and (2) an odd number of buttons fit easier. I started making and sewing black elastic button loops on, but ran out of elastic after 8 loops. Each loop is a piece of elastic cord about 3 inches long that is knotted, looped around the button, then the other side of the bodice is lined up, the elastic loop is pinned and then sewn into place. I'm going to hunt for more elastic and if I come up empty I'll either buy more or leave the bottom of the bodice unfastened. I'll likely buy more, as to not be a lady of questionable reputation.

2. The bias around my 'jacket' has been hand stitched down. Then I cut more bias, pinned and sewed it around the armholes and then hand stitched it in place. Unless I decide the jacket needs a closure, which I'm thinking it does not, the jacket is DONE.

3. As for my 'time traveler' - finally added more ring tape to the bustle, so it'll bustle a little higher now and hopefully show some of the underskirt in the back. I also stitched a ring right below the flap at the back of the underskirt so that the bustle can be tied into place. I decided not to move the hook closure because I'm too worried about it disturbing the bustle. And because I was too lazy to redo it honestly.

4. The beau's kilt is now ready for waistband application! Had to redo some of the pleats - during previous fittings he had not noticed that all the pleats went one direction and he checked his Utilikilt and the internet to find that the pleats should go opposite directions and meet with a box pleat in the back. So I had to rip out half the pleats and re do them. I didn't really mind as it kept my hands occupied. The kilt was approved with a final fitting. Now all I need to do is attach the waistband, make and attach belt loops and sew on hook closures.

5. Little progress has been made on my mystery costume. I did however sew the pleather strips together into one long strap. I don't anticipate this costume taking too long, but I always tried to be prepared for the worst.

Overall, I think my preparations are coming along quite quite well.

Pre-Marcon to do list:
1. Elastic loops for silver and black bodice
2. Finishing the beau's kilt
3. Princess Leia belt
4. Time traveler prop
5. Mystery costume
6. Maybe finishing my Harley Quinn hat

I don't really have anything in my sewing bag today. The kilt is there but since all I need to do is pinning (I'm going to machine stitch the waistband) its not really much of a sewing project.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde