Paris Themed Late 1880s Ensemble - Post the Third

My new overskirt - Truly Victorian #374 1886 Bordered Asymetrical Overskirt - is DONE except for the closure. I'm not positive that it's going to lay quite right without some assistance, the adding of my own border has altered the drape of the fabric. But we'll see.

The first step of course, was to add the border to the edges of each piece. I sewed the two back pieces together and made two burnouse pleats. Then I moved on to the front piece. Where I hemmed the wrong edge. Unfortunately, I didn't realize I hemmed the wrong edge soon enough to correct the issue. So there's some extra bulk in the waistband. I had some issues with all the pleating involved, but think I finally figured it out.

And then...came the waistband. Sigh. Yeah there were definitely issues there. According to the directions, I was supposed to pleat a huge section of fabric down to fit about three inches of space. I went with a gathering stitch, and then just kinda forced the gathered section to fit that three inches of space.

Up next: trying it on with the bustle and underskirt for fit, then putting on the closure. I'll try to get some pictures of me wearing the new overskirt.

Mistakes I won't make again: I won't hem the wrong edge of the front section. And I'll take out some of the width of the back piece so I'm not forcing a yard of fabric into three inches of waistband.

After the underskirt is done, I'll move on to making the muslin of the bodice.

In other news, I picked up four more yards of grey taffeta. I'm planning a new underskirt, perhaps one that will go with my new square overskirt. But that is not an immediate project.

Time Traveler #15

Sorry for the delay my dear darlings. I have new real life employment that is keeping me from my sewing love. But said employment has allowed me to buy a few things for my costume so I say it all works out in the end. I picked up more green ribbon - one spool of the narrow I've been using for trim and one of a wider width to use for the waistband of the underskirt. I also purchased some white petticoat net to use in the bustle. The pattern calls for crinoline but I personally feel that crinoline would be much to thick. I believe that the netting will give it some nice shape. I need to purchase some fabric for the ruffles at the bottom of the skirt. I've decided I don't like the one semi narrow ruffle that I have now so I'm going to attempt to match the color of the purple brocade so I can have a couple layers of wider ruffles at the hem.

I cut out the lining for the bustle. I decided to just use the clock print cotton because I did not have enough of either white fabric I was thinking of using. The white fabric will likely become ruffles along the edge of the bustle. I'm also contemplating covering an umbrella and making it into a parasol. Maybe some of the white fabric will be used for that. The apron has been pinned to the underskirt but I have not stitched it into place yet. So a quick look to the future - stitching the apron in place, cutting out the netting for the bustle, putting the bustle together, removing current ruffle from skirt and adding new ones. Oh and I eventually need to shorten and hem the sleeves on the shrug. I'm thinking elbow length would work well.

I've had some more prop ideas but I think that what I want to do is beyond my meager prop making abilities. Fingers crossed I either figure out something or someone else helps me.

A bientot!
Miss Leah J. Wilde

Time Traveler Entry #12

Dear readers,

I finished stitching the purple ruffle on the bodice. Now all I need to do is sew on the green ribbon.

I tried the white lace trim both under and over the purple ruffle on the underskirt. Neither appealed. Under it just looked like the petticoat was showing. And it wouldn't lay right over. So I abandoned the idea. At least for now.

I put together the apron of the overskirt. Sewed the side pieces to the front, pleated the sides in accordance with the pattern markings and attached the apron back. Those pieces will fasten on top of the bustle pillow. Then I started the trimming process - used what was left of the purple ruffle from the bodice to edge the bottom of the apron, then layered white lace over top. I plan to add green ribbon as well, but that will have to be hand sewn.

That's it for today.

A bientot,

Miss Leah J. Wilde