Dear readers,
Have you ever just needed some time off from sewing? I rarely do, but this weekend was not a good weekend.
First of all, I was supposed to go Friday night, wearing my new 18th c stays with a cream linen petticoat over a bum pad and matching little shrug I made last minute. But it was snowy and I didn't have a ride, so I stayed home. But I was halfway dressed when I made the decision to stay home, and it wasn't very pretty. The stays don't quite fit correctly, the straps cut in at the shoulders. Part of it may be that they weren't laced properly so fingers crossed that fixes the problem. Also, the bum pad's ties leave an unsightly bulge on my stomach when the petticoat is on and tied. Needless to say, I was okay not going when nothing seemed to fit right!
Secondly, since I already had on my Regency chemise, I decided to try on my short stays and almost finished petticoat, so I could (1) get the strap length for the petticoat straps and (2) measure myself so I could cut out the proper size for my ballgown. And I couldn't get the stays to work. I'm not very well endowed and instead of lifting, the stays just seem to flatten everything.
After TWO bad experiences, I decided to take the weekend off from historical sewing, even with my ballgown / open robe deadline looming over me. So I quilted and I brainstormed the corset I need to make for Symposium to go with my airship uniform (the black and gold natural form-esque outfit) and I finished my cousin's pj pants. I meant to finish my father and brother's aprons and make a pair of leggings (cut out last week), but spent almost the entire weekend with a close friend, bc it was her birthday.
So, this week's goals:
1. Finish the aprons
2. Put together the leggings
3. Buy some bust enhancers for the Regency stays (I'm going to cheat!)
4. Take measurements over Regency undergarments
5. Iron fabric and cut out ballgown
6. Cut out a muslin for the airship corset (gonna have to basically make my own pattern)
7. Take pictures and write a blog post about my stays for HSF
And this weekend will be pretty sewing free because my friend Laura is visiting! :)
Oh, I also went fabric shopping on Friday! I got black linen for an 18th c petticoat, blue taffeta for an Edwardian corset, black denim and white denim for corset interlinging, and cream linen and cream lace for a shrug and mask that ended up not being worn Friday since I stayed home. I also picked up a few notions for projects.
Showing posts with label 18th cent.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 18th cent.. Show all posts
Monday, February 17, 2014
Thursday, December 12, 2013
Current Projects - December 2013
Just a few pictures of projects I've started recently:
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| Regency shift, using Sense and Sensibility's Regency Underthings pattern. Once the basic construction's done, I'm going to start on the short stays. |
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| Regency spencer, from a coat I made for my former beau. I drafted my own collar piece while looking at pictures of a spencer I liked online. |
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| And my quilt that I'm hand quilting. Definitely a long term project. |
Labels:
18th cent.,
2014 sewing plans,
quilting,
regency,
stays
Monday, January 7, 2013
18th Century Costume Planning
Dear readers, I have come to the conclusion that I just need to bite the proverbial bullet and embark on an ambitious project: a complete 18th century costume. And I do mean complete.
A shift.
Stays.
Probably something around my hips. Leaning towards a bum roll over the panniers / pocket hoops option.
Under petticoat.
Pockets?
One or more petticoats, one of which would be the outer visible petticoat.
A jacket or gown of some sort. I haven't quite decided on this yet.
I'd like to make it as accurate as I can, without spending a ton of money on patterns.
I'm still in the research / planning stage, but I figure I can at least start on the underpinnings, the shift, the stays and the petticoat. I've found several tutorials for making petticoats and shifts, because you don't really need a pattern for those. As for the stays, I'm going to use Butterick 4254. I know its not 100% historically accurate, but it's accurate enough for me I think. I'll just need to decide if I want to use modern or historical construction techniques.
This may end up being a project of the evening gown sort...
A shift.
Stays.
Probably something around my hips. Leaning towards a bum roll over the panniers / pocket hoops option.
Under petticoat.
Pockets?
One or more petticoats, one of which would be the outer visible petticoat.
A jacket or gown of some sort. I haven't quite decided on this yet.
I'd like to make it as accurate as I can, without spending a ton of money on patterns.
I'm still in the research / planning stage, but I figure I can at least start on the underpinnings, the shift, the stays and the petticoat. I've found several tutorials for making petticoats and shifts, because you don't really need a pattern for those. As for the stays, I'm going to use Butterick 4254. I know its not 100% historically accurate, but it's accurate enough for me I think. I'll just need to decide if I want to use modern or historical construction techniques.
This may end up being a project of the evening gown sort...
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Musings on Sewing I'd Like to Do Over the Next Year
After finishing my current fall / winter wardrobe sewing (two skirts and two jumpers and maybe something in plaid...high waisted skirt for work / play perhaps...) and after finishing my elf-punk ensemble (I still need to sew some snaps or hooks on to attach the bustle to the apron as well as make a hat), I need to start thinking about next year's convention schedule and what I want to make.
First up is sewing for Miss Von Stoup. I know she wants something out of a black and silver fabric we purchased on our summer shopping trip, but I need to sit down with her to discuss it.
Current convention plans for next year:
For Ohayocon, I want to revamp both of my Harley Quinn outfits. (1) The comic book body suit needs a new collar and cuffs. I already have some white taffeta I can use for the collar, I just need to make the pattern and then add the fluffy balls (which I may have in my stash). The cuffs I plan to make out of trim from Joanns -- it's white pleated ribbon. I think two or three rows of it will give the perfect look. I'd like to make both the collar and the cuffs removable. If possible, I'd also like to make shoe covers and purchase a pair of red gloves. I'm striving for a more accurate costume. (2) I want to add white braid along the jacket edges of my steampunk version and maybe also at the skirt hem, so it flows. This will take some time, because it has to be sewn on by hand. Maybe I'll purchase some braid this weekend with my extra discount so I can work on it over Thanksgiving...I need to measure how much I'll need first.
Other projects in the planning stages:
I might incorporate my pink shawls from my Ottoman steampunk: one as the bustle, the other as a drape or headscarf. If I don't wear the shawl over my hair, I'll wear some sort of scarf or bandanna that coordinates with my outfit. I plan to wear a lot of jewelry: a steampunk necklace a friend gave me, a watch locket from my grandmother, a purple and black necklace of plastic jewels bought from a street vendor in Amsterdam, and maybe my black beaded choker as well. Along with lots of bangles, hoop earrings and probably some rings as well. I have a coin belt that I'll likely wear and I have some coin jewelry charms that I'd like to use as trim somewhere or to make a necklace. Corset wise, I could wear the pink one, my black and silver waist cincher or I could make a new one.

Crazy quilt skirt from Seven Brides for Seven Brothers. I just love Howard Keel, don't you?
Stash sewing ideas: I know I have some cream and black flocked satin that might make a nice polanaise if I have enough OR it could work for an 18th century jacket then all I'd need would be a black petticoat...I also have a length of black and silver plaid left from my black and silver costume, maybe I could make a new skirt so I could be plaid head to toe. Oh I really like that idea. It would probably have to be a shortened skirt because I know there's not enough for a full length version. Although there is always the possibility of a shortened black underskirt trimmed in deep black and silver plaid ruffles. I know I have some purple linen as well...And a ton of other stuff. I really need to go through all my bins. Oh and there's a ton of bright pink satin, maybe that should go towards my 18th century outfit.
How to make an 18th century petticoat links:
http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html
http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/petticoat.htm
http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2011/02/how-to-make-18th-century-petticoat.html (btw I follow this blog and recommend it highly)
I'm actually rather tempted to adapt patterns in my stash or that are easily purchase-able patterns to make something vaguely 18th century but not 100% accurate. After all, I am a steampunk. Can I steampunk the 18th century?
Corset Ideas:
A ribbon corset. This is a corset made of ribbon instead of fabric. I'm thinking I could adapt my underbust corset pattern to make one of these quite easily. Now do I have any ribbon in my stash...

A ribbon corset from an awesome corsetry blog, Bridges on the Body.
A corset based on Dr. Warner's Sanitary Corset from the late 1870s. It just looks so very steampunk-able to me.

The front buttons...

And the back has elastic. (Photos from the Antique Corset Gallery)
A corset based on the Kabo Girdle 801. This is a wrap around corset which is so unusual and amazing.

Front view

Back view. (Photos from the Antique Corset Gallery).
And now for my newest corset obsession, the corset with shoulder braces. I want to make a high backed, underbust corset with straps that fasten over the shoulders. I've been collecting some denim that might work well with this...or maybe I should do it for my gypsy costume...

From Ageless Patterns
Summary:
A bientot!
First up is sewing for Miss Von Stoup. I know she wants something out of a black and silver fabric we purchased on our summer shopping trip, but I need to sit down with her to discuss it.
Current convention plans for next year:
- Ohayocon in January. Primarily an anime convention, but there is always a steampunk presence.
- Steampunk Empire Symposium in April. I'll be staying at my parents' house to cut costs so I'll have to really think about each outfit I take and its drive-ability.
- World Steam Expo in May.
- DragonCon in September.
For Ohayocon, I want to revamp both of my Harley Quinn outfits. (1) The comic book body suit needs a new collar and cuffs. I already have some white taffeta I can use for the collar, I just need to make the pattern and then add the fluffy balls (which I may have in my stash). The cuffs I plan to make out of trim from Joanns -- it's white pleated ribbon. I think two or three rows of it will give the perfect look. I'd like to make both the collar and the cuffs removable. If possible, I'd also like to make shoe covers and purchase a pair of red gloves. I'm striving for a more accurate costume. (2) I want to add white braid along the jacket edges of my steampunk version and maybe also at the skirt hem, so it flows. This will take some time, because it has to be sewn on by hand. Maybe I'll purchase some braid this weekend with my extra discount so I can work on it over Thanksgiving...I need to measure how much I'll need first.
Other projects in the planning stages:
- I still really want to make an 18th century costume, either a robe a l'anglaise or a petticoat and jacket combination. This will be a lengthy proposition though, as I need to start from the skin out with stays and pocket hoops or a bumroll.
- I also really want to do a steampunk gypsy costume. I spent time yesterday pouring over Miss Kagashi's post on "The Roving Roma" (http://thesteamerstrunk.blogspot.com/2011/03/cylthe-roving-roma.html) and developing plans.
- And I want to look through all of my fabric and see what I can find to make new costumes. And probably new corsets, maybe even to sell.
- I'd love to make some new corsets. I have tons of ideas, I just need to sit down and execute them.
I might incorporate my pink shawls from my Ottoman steampunk: one as the bustle, the other as a drape or headscarf. If I don't wear the shawl over my hair, I'll wear some sort of scarf or bandanna that coordinates with my outfit. I plan to wear a lot of jewelry: a steampunk necklace a friend gave me, a watch locket from my grandmother, a purple and black necklace of plastic jewels bought from a street vendor in Amsterdam, and maybe my black beaded choker as well. Along with lots of bangles, hoop earrings and probably some rings as well. I have a coin belt that I'll likely wear and I have some coin jewelry charms that I'd like to use as trim somewhere or to make a necklace. Corset wise, I could wear the pink one, my black and silver waist cincher or I could make a new one.

Crazy quilt skirt from Seven Brides for Seven Brothers. I just love Howard Keel, don't you?
Stash sewing ideas: I know I have some cream and black flocked satin that might make a nice polanaise if I have enough OR it could work for an 18th century jacket then all I'd need would be a black petticoat...I also have a length of black and silver plaid left from my black and silver costume, maybe I could make a new skirt so I could be plaid head to toe. Oh I really like that idea. It would probably have to be a shortened skirt because I know there's not enough for a full length version. Although there is always the possibility of a shortened black underskirt trimmed in deep black and silver plaid ruffles. I know I have some purple linen as well...And a ton of other stuff. I really need to go through all my bins. Oh and there's a ton of bright pink satin, maybe that should go towards my 18th century outfit.
How to make an 18th century petticoat links:
http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html
http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/petticoat.htm
http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2011/02/how-to-make-18th-century-petticoat.html (btw I follow this blog and recommend it highly)
I'm actually rather tempted to adapt patterns in my stash or that are easily purchase-able patterns to make something vaguely 18th century but not 100% accurate. After all, I am a steampunk. Can I steampunk the 18th century?
Corset Ideas:
A ribbon corset. This is a corset made of ribbon instead of fabric. I'm thinking I could adapt my underbust corset pattern to make one of these quite easily. Now do I have any ribbon in my stash...
A ribbon corset from an awesome corsetry blog, Bridges on the Body.
A corset based on Dr. Warner's Sanitary Corset from the late 1870s. It just looks so very steampunk-able to me.

The front buttons...

And the back has elastic. (Photos from the Antique Corset Gallery)
A corset based on the Kabo Girdle 801. This is a wrap around corset which is so unusual and amazing.

Front view

Back view. (Photos from the Antique Corset Gallery).
And now for my newest corset obsession, the corset with shoulder braces. I want to make a high backed, underbust corset with straps that fasten over the shoulders. I've been collecting some denim that might work well with this...or maybe I should do it for my gypsy costume...
From Ageless Patterns
Summary:
- fall/winter sewing
- elf punk
- sewing for Miss Von Stoup
- Harley Quinn revamp
- patchwork skirt for gypsy-punk
- stash sewing: cream and black satin, black and silver plaid, purple linen, bright pink satin
- corsets
A bientot!
Saturday, June 18, 2011
DragonCon: Confederate Progress 1
I actually worked on my uniform last night! After trying it on again, I decided that the sleeves were just fine (and confirmed it with Miss Dashwood), so I set about topstitching along the collar and front edges. I need to handstitch the facings in place, hem and put on the snap closures. Then of course comes the braid and buttons...
And there's a bit of an issue - the sleeves are too short. Which leaves two remedies: (1) shortening the sleeves to 3/4 length, which then means we probably can't do any braid on them or (2) adding cuffs to lengthen the sleeves. Honestly, I don't like either option so I have no idea what to do at this moment.
In other news, I think I've decided to make an 18th century robe a l'anglais for myself when I get the chance. I was planning on a natural form Victorian gown, but I think I need a break from Victorian. The only major downside (besides needing YARDS of fabric and expensive patterns) is that I'll need proper undergarments -- a chemise, stays and pocket hoops. The chemise and pocket hoops I believe can be made via internet instructions, the stays will need a pattern. Fortunately, Butterick has a stays pattern so I'll probably just pick that up next time they're on sale and perhaps start on them in between other projects.
And there's a bit of an issue - the sleeves are too short. Which leaves two remedies: (1) shortening the sleeves to 3/4 length, which then means we probably can't do any braid on them or (2) adding cuffs to lengthen the sleeves. Honestly, I don't like either option so I have no idea what to do at this moment.
In other news, I think I've decided to make an 18th century robe a l'anglais for myself when I get the chance. I was planning on a natural form Victorian gown, but I think I need a break from Victorian. The only major downside (besides needing YARDS of fabric and expensive patterns) is that I'll need proper undergarments -- a chemise, stays and pocket hoops. The chemise and pocket hoops I believe can be made via internet instructions, the stays will need a pattern. Fortunately, Butterick has a stays pattern so I'll probably just pick that up next time they're on sale and perhaps start on them in between other projects.
Labels:
18th cent.,
confederate,
Dragon Con,
robe a l'anglais,
stays,
steampunk
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