Thursday, May 7, 2015

Miss Wilde's Crazy Project 2

I did it!

Okay, mostly.

First up, the corset: Like I said before, this was finishing an already started corset.  It's a Simplicity Civil War era style, which is probably why fitting it was such a pain.  I cut and recut it several times before I was happy with it and when it was all said and done, I still had to put in a little dart at the bottom to get it to fit better.  But, I think it turned out pretty good. :)

Getting everything cut out and ironed.
All put together and putting the boning channels in.
One thing I wished I had done differently: I followed the instructions for the boning channels but ended up only using like half of the boning I purchased for the corset because I couldn't do all the boning channels.  Several of the panels were supposed to have boning down the center but mine was so small that I couldn't really fit them.  So next time two boning channels per seam. I think that'd work better and give me more support and compression.

Busk in, eyelets next.

Almost done! And looking pretty good, don't you think?
Half bound. I wasn't going to line it, but decided that I couldn't deal with icky insides, so I used left over fabric from my butterfly dress to line and bind them.  I think the purple looks pretty with the yellow stripes.
Once the corset was done, it was time to start on the petticoat.  This is the 1880s view from Truly Victorian's petticoat pattern.  I had actually cut it out last year but never put it together.

I really really hate tucks.  They're easy but very monotonous.
Petticoat's not fancy, but it's done. And I think it looks pretty good.

Finished corset and petticoat worn over my lobster tail bustle and bustle pillow for extra lift and support.

After the undergarments were finished, it was time for the outfit! First up was the skirt, because I figured it'd be easier.  I had brown silk already and debated about flatlining it for support and structure.  I asked a couple seamstress friends and they were both like "oh it'll be fine, don't worry about it".  My mom (who doesn't sew, but understands sewing and more importantly me) told me to flatline it because I wouldn't be happy otherwise.  Flatlining was also the advice from Historical Sewing when I asked via Facebook.  So I bought some cream muslin and flatlined the silk, following the instructions from Historical Sewing's blog.

Everything cut out.

Once the skirt was together, I realized I had a couple snags: the waistband was too small and the petticoat too long.
 I ripped apart the waistband, remade a new slightly longer one, and resewed it.  I also ended up hemming the petticoat a little shorter, the night before the convention.

Hand hemming the skirt while visiting my parents and watching Smackdown! (wrestling) with my dad.
Once all that was taken care of, it was time to tackle the worst part: the jacket.  After measuring myself, and having a friend remeasure me, I set to work.

First up, cutting out the pattern. This is Truly Victorian's Riding Habit bodice by the way.
Mock up, front.

Mock up, back

This is actually mockup number two. The front was too small on the first one so I had to cut another at a larger size.

The weekend before the convention, hand basting time!

Trying to decide if I wanted a contrast collar or not.

Cutting out the lining.

Good thing I keep a sewing machine at my parents' house! I was able to get the jacket....

And the lining put together while visiting over a three day weekend.

Good thing about that leftover boning from my corset? It worked pretty perfectly to bone the jacket.

Spent an evening hand sewing in boning casings.
 And now for the bane of my existence, sleeves.  I did sleeve #1 three times, decided it was okay enough and did sleeve #2 and....they didn't match.
I hate sleeves.
 This was Monday night before the convention, that started on Friday. I called my  mom almost and tears and she told me just to make it a vest, at least for now. Wasn't worth the stress.

Two days before the convention
Two days before the convention and my to do list was: finishing the bias trim which had to be hand sewn on with all the corners and tricky bits. Sewing the arm holes and neck edges.  Closures on the jacket and the skirt. Oh and finishing packing.

Only the closures to go!

I totally sewed on the last two closures for my jacket on my lunch break at work the day the convention started but I finished my crazy sewing project!

And a close up.
Next time, I need to lengthen the skirt (which is Truly Victorian's four gore 1880s underskirt)  It was a good walking length, which was perfect for the traveling outfit idea I was going for, but it really should be just a touch longer because you could see my boots.

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