Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Progress?

Sadly, no. Last night, I was rather tired and decided to forgo sewing for one evening. I did however try on my cage bustle and I do believe it is going to work.

It is a rather large bustle however...

All that needs to be done is the hem and I can mark that off my to do list.

I have several things in my project bag for the next couple of days (I'm taking tomorrow off work to accompany my beau to the doctor) - my Ottoman Vest, the Joker trousers - which still need hemmed, a bag of pink fabric in case I feel an urge to work on my crazy quilt bustle idea, and a dress pattern in case I end up at the fabric store. I am in need of a new summer dress. I'm thinking cupcake printed fabric, or maybe skulls but I already have a skull sundress...Basically just something cute and a little funky to make a little sundress.

That's all for now, my darling readers.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J. Wilde

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Marcon Prep: The Ottoman Vest and Cage Bustle

Ottoman Vest:

So far I've completely used up one skein of metallic thread - there are two rows of couched thread around the entire outside of the vest, and around the armholes and there is one row of couched thread about two inches above the first two rows around the outside but not the armholes.

Tired of couching thread, I pulled out the pink embroidery floss this evening and started a simple outline stitch inbetween the two rows of couched thread. I'm doing this to bring some pink into the vest to match the scarves better.

I'm thinking I'll add a nice gear design on the front in a couple places, but that won't come until after the border is complete. The large design on the back will likely also involve gears.

However, I have little to no idea what to do to fill in the border space. Maybe some spirals. Maybe a nice paisley design. I really don't know.

Cage Bustle:

I also worked on my cage bustle. I shortened most of the bones and basically pleated the casing down to be the right size. And I sewed the ties on underneath. I just need to try it on, and then put the skirts on over it to make sure the length is good before hemming it. I was thinking about ruffles, but now I'm leaning away from that.

I may have other plans for that left over muslin...

In other news...

I made myself a bandanna out of a remnant of UC Bearcats fabric that I picked up last week. It was a pretty quick project. All I did was use another bandanna to measure how big it needed to be and then did a narrow hem on three sides, the fourth was the selvage edge.

I've also had this costume idea running around in my head for a week or so. It's based on a Persian jacket I saw in a Racinet illustration. I was contemplating franken-patterning it out of a jacket pattern, but when I checked the Simplicity site today, low and behold, they have a pattern that is pretty much just what I had in mind. Of course, mine will be different as I don't have enough fabric for the entire jacket. It'll probably be sleeveless and shorter to accommodate how much fabric I have. Or I may end up buying more fabric, who knows. But this is probably where the muslin will go, cuz it would make nice lining for the vest I think. However, this outfit will likely not happen until DragonCon since I still have my vivandiere outfit to make for Marcon.

And now, this steam-stress is off to bed. Bonne nuit, mes amis, et dormi bien.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J. Wilde

Thursday, March 24, 2011

How I spent my evening....

Watching basketball and sewing. I tacked the facing down on the Think Pink skirt at the zipper, the darts and the side seam. Hopefully it'll stay in place better now. And I sewed the patch pockets into the inside of the Joker coat, so that's well on its way. I had originally hoped to work on my Ottoman vest as well, but I'm please with what I did get done.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

A Cage Bustle Petticoat (Marcon Prep) and a few other things

As mentioned yesterday, I cleaned my sewing area last night. The table is now mostly clear except for a few current projects, my actual sewing machine table is clear of all the little stuff that was cluttering it up, pattern pieces are back in their envelopes and patterns are back in their boxes, left over fabric is all put away into plastic bins and things I think I may need soon are easily accessible.

With that done, I sat down and took in my Think Pink skirt and my purple knit tunic, both of which were a little big. The skirt needs a bit of hand sewing, just to tack down the facing and I think the tunic needs taken in more after I tried it on this morning.

I then packed a bag for my slumber party at Miss Bobbie's this evening. I have my Ottoman vest, my beau's Joker coat and my Think Pink skirt all ready for me to work on this evening. I thought about taking muslin to make strips for ruffles on my new bustle petticoat, but decided I had enough to work on.

With all this finished, and not in the mood for hand sewing, I started on my cage bustle petticoat. I was going for something similar to these bustles from Fashions of the Ages -

Or to Truly Victorian 101 -


But my petticoat needed to be shorter to be worn with Diamonds are Forever (aka steampunk Harley Quinn). I really thought about buying the TV pattern (I've been dying to try some of their patterns), but the cost was just a little too dear for me to pay with how tight my finances have been. So I decided to try my hand at making one on my own, using tried and true patterns and a tutorial or two.

I pulled out my trusty Simplicity 5457 (out of print, but its my go to pattern for most of my steampunk sewing), got the underskirt pieces and proceeded to cut them out of the white muslin I bought recently. The pattern needed to be shortened to be about 27" long (the length of the Harley Quinn underskirt and petticoat) so I did that by measuring and then folding the pattern. I cut out the five gores - three narrow gores for the front, two wider gores for the back, then pinned and sewed them together. I decided to leave one side seam unsewn so I could put in the boning channels easier.

I started laying out the boning channels. I used quilt binding for the channels.



Then decided to check my tutorial (found on My Silly Blue Hippo on blogspot). I needed three channels, not two, and the top one needed to be higher. I sewed part of the back opening together so I could put in another channel about two inches above the top one in the above picture, and moved that channel about two inches lower. And all the channels had to be moved to the other side of the petticoat, as they're supposed to go on the outside not the inside.

With the channels all pinned on, I stitched them down, then stitched the inside channels - a short channel in the middle of the top boning channel and two pocket-ish channels on the sides. The inside bone fits into the pockets and passes through the middle bit in a curve. Then I put the boning in -


I realized that it wasn't laying exactly right, and that the bones needed to be shortened. So I took them out and proceeded to put the waistband on. Then I redid the bones, shortening all of them. I measured the top channel to see how short I thought the top bone needed to be when you allow for the channel to gather over it and decided on 24". I cut that bone, and the other two are longer (for now). I'm sure I'll change the boning length when I can work on it again.

Here's a picture showing the gathering at the top -

And a side shot showing how well it collapses -


And here it is with me holding it up by the waistband -


It still needs some work. I plan to stitch along the top boning channel to keep the gathers in place. And the second channel may need gathered as well, we'll see. Then I'll need to sew the boning channels closed and put in the ties, which go underneath to really give it the right shape. And of course, there's the hem. I'd like to add a ruffled overlay as seen in the first pictures posted above.

I definitely need to try it on before I really do much else though. Probably should've done that last night. All in all, I'm pleased with my progress and that I managed to make a cage bustle petticoat without using a pattern.

In retrospect, I would leave both side seams unsewn then put in the boning channels. I would also change how the waistband closes, probably to a front or side closure, and alter the shape of the back, particularly at the top, so it wouldn't have to gather. If I make another one, I'll definitely change a few things.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

In Me Made March news...

I'm wearing a brown / black / gold plaid skirt today. I paired it with black flats, pink tights, a black tank top and a pink cardigan.

I made the skirt several years ago. If I remember correctly, I took a Vogue 50s-esque dress pattern and used only the skirt pieces from the dress and made my own waistband pattern. It's one of my favorite skirts and I wear it a lot during the colder months. Soon it'll be too warm for a brown and black plaid skirt to be appropriate.

I think I'm going to clean my sewing area this evening after work. It's gotten rather out of hand and that is putting it mildly. Since my projects (aka the Joker) are coming along so nicely, I feel like I have the time to spare to clean up my sewing area. Plus, a clean sewing area means I'll be able to work more efficiently.

A bientot!

Miss Leah J. Wilde

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Joker 9 (Marcon prep)

First of all, the vest is DONE. Tonight I finished stitching the lining to the outer fabric along the armholes, then marked and sewed on the buttons. So its done (unless we decide to do the back tab...)

I also put a hook closure on the trousers. All that's left is hemming them, and I need my beau to try them on first. I was just going to do it, but I pinned them and laid them out and the hems didn't look even so I decided it was best to wait for him. That way, I'll know the trousers are the right length instead of just guessing.

So all I need to do is....
- Hem trousers.
- Put buttonholes in the jacket.
- Make and sew on buttons to the jacket.
- Sew on patch pockets to the inside of the jacket.

It's definitely getting there!

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Monday, March 21, 2011

The Joker 8 (Marcon prep)

I made a little progress on the Joker vest this evening.
  • I treated the buttonholes with Fray Check and let them dry before cutting them open.
  • I pinned the lining and outer fabric at the armholes and started stitching them together, using contrast orange thread of course.
  • I stitched around the pocket openings with the orange thread, partly as decoration, partly to hold the pocket together properly.
  • And my beau and I discussed and shopped for buttons and have tentatively decided to make our own - flat metal buttons (which I think I have) used as a base for fake jewels to be glued on to for the jacket.
Current to do list for the Joker:
  • Vest - finish sewing armholes
  • Vest - sew buttons on
  • Vest - maybe the back tab
  • Jacket - sew on inside patch pockets
  • Jacket - buttonholes (I need to find some fabric to use for the welts on the bound buttonholes, I'm thinking green or orange or purple satin, or I could use the coat lining or the vest lining...decisions, decisions, I'll have to talk to the beau)
  • Jacket - make buttons and sew them on
  • Trousers - waistband hooks and eyes
  • Trousers - hem
A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

PS - In Me Made March news, I'm currently wearing my clockwork pajama pants.