Thoughts on Remaining HSF Challenges

• #13: Under $10 – due Tue 14 July.  : I think I'm skipping this one. It's too soon, and I have no idea how much I paid for the majority of my fabric so...
• #14: Paisley & Plaid – due Fri 1 August.  : I'll probably skip this one too, mainly because of how much work the next challenge is going to be.
• #15: The Great Outdoors – due Fri 15 August.  : Victorian swimsuit! Wow that's soon, guess I better order that pattern...
• #16: Terminology – due Mon 1 September.  : Not really sure if I'll do anything for this one. Everything that I was already thinking of has been pushed back to next year so...Maybe my new stays?
• #17: Yellow - due Mon 15 September.  : I think this is going to be my gold polonaise, after I fix a couple fitting issues and add more braid.
• #18: Poetry in Motion - due Wed 1 October  Still no idea.
• #19: HSF Inspiration - due Wed 15 October.  : I need to look back over last year's entries as well as this year's to see if anything inspires me.
• #20: Alternative Universe – due Sat 1 November.  : Rococopunk!
• #21: Re-do – due Sat 15 November.  : I don't know whether it's strictly allowed or not, but there was a green challenge last year and my sari bustle gown that's on my to do list is green...
• #22: Fort-nightliers Choice – due Mon 1 December.  : This one hasn't been determined yet.
• #23: Modern History – due Mon 15 December.  : Hooded blouse and trousers from an Eva Dress pattern. Kinda excited about this one actually.
• #24: All that Glitters – due Thur 1 January.  : No clue.

February 2014 - Project Update

Okay, so I'm a few days late...I'm trying! :)

So here's what I've been up to:

I finished the aprons for my father and brother.  Papa will wear his, my brother probably won't, sadly.

Finished Clifford the Big Red Dog apron!

 I started my new leggings, but haven't finished them yet.

As for my Regency underthings, I did purchase bust enhancers but they didn't fix the stays issue.  They were too big, so I took them in (now they dig in on my ribs) and now they fit much better, and put things where they belong! I'm totally still using the enhancers for a little extra oomph though :)  And it took a bit, but I finally just made myself finish the petticoat. I think it's too short, so I'm not 100% happy with it, but hopefully it'll look okay under the ballgown I'm working on.

Finished Regency underthings - chemise, short stays and petticoat with straps. HSF Under It All challenge.

Speaking of my ballgown...I took my measurements over the Regency undergarments, ironed the fabric (which sucked!) and got everything cut out the week before my friend visited from out of state. The past week has been working on it a little pretty much every day.  Right now, the bodice is complete (except for the sleeve hems) and the skirts are put together (I cheated and finished the skirt seams by machine, I was out of patience for hand finishing), so tonight will be attaching the two together! Once the dress is finished, it'll be time to make a pattern for my open robe. I am definitely NOT cutting into my sari until I test out my ideas first!

Ballgown ticket! I'm going to the ball!

While I was still in the mood to not sew Regency things, I got the muslin for my airship corset cut out. I have an awesome idea, fingers crossed it all works out!

The 18th century stays along with the Regency underthings have been posted in the HSF sewing group, but as you see, I haven't gotten around to blogging about them yet.  It's on my to do list, I promise!

Finished 18th century stays - HSF Pink challenge

January 2014 - Project Update with Pictures!

I've decided to (try and) post an update at the end of each month about what I've been working on and (hopefully) what I've finished. So, here's the first one: January 2014!

1. I started a Regency spencer for HSF #1 Make Do and Mend but never finished it. The pattern I used to base it off of was a very poor choice, and the spencer ended up with several pleats instead of being smooth to fit right. And I don't have enough fabric to recut all the pieces so...
2. I made a pair of Regency short stays to go with my previously finished Regency chemise. I used Sense and Sensibility's Regency Underthings pattern and they came out pretty good I think. They'll be for HSF #4 Under It All, along with the chemise and the last piece, a petticoat with straps (which I have cut out but not started construction on).

Pretty hand stitched bust gussets

I hand quilted the short stays, with just a little boning because I don't really need that much support.

Finished short stays!

1. I worked on a pair of 18th century stays, started forever ago (it feels like). I think they're coming along reasonably well, I'm up to the binding portion. In case you've ever wondered, binding the tabs on stays SUCKS. It's a horrid, but necessary, stage of construction. However, once I'm done with the binding, all I have to do is put eyelets at the shoulders and pick up some ribbon to tie the shoulder straps in place. I splurged a little bit (and used a coupon) on a 1/2 yard of cream silk for the binding. Totally put in metal eyelets though, cuz I am NOT dealing with handworked ones.

Stays, after I was finished with the boning.

Stays, in the midst of lining

Stays, while putting in the metal eyelets.

Stays, the top edge while binding.

Stays, approaching the end of the binding.

1. I started an 18th century bum pad, just looked at a couple other seamstresses versions and drew up a pattern. I need to sew the two sides together so I have sections, then stuff it, close it up and put ties on it so it's wearable.
2. OH! And I had a last minute Ohayocon commission for a friend -- a bolero jacket for her Elizabeth from Bioshock cosplay. Definitely put that one on the DONE list. Finished it on January 24th.
3. Also in the works are two aprons for my dad and brother (I really should finish those...) and pajama pants for my cousin (which I also should finish...)

Apron fabric, because my father and brother are both named Clifford. I couldn't resist!

I've been brainstorming and planning and shopping for several other projects as well.

1. I picked up 3 yards of cream cotton linen blend linen for an 18th century petticoat. Originally I was going to try to dye it pink to match the stays for the HSF #3 Pink challenge, but I'm terrified of ruining a not very inexpensive fabric purchase by attempting to dye it so....the stays will be for the pink challenge and the petticoat will be cream, which will coordinate with the stays.
2. I also bought fabric for my Regency ballgown which'll be for HSF #6 Fairytale. It's a super lightweight cotton shirting white on white with a silver metallic pinstripe. I got an amazing deal on that fabric by the way, I only hope that there's enough for the dress! It's 50 inches wide so I *think* I can eck it out, I just really wanted elbow length sleeves. So we'll see. 

Regency ballgown fabric. A steal at $2.50 a yard!

1. I've been 'window' shopping for fabric for the Regency open robe that'll go over the ballgown, but haven't purchased anything yet.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Planning my Historical Sew Fortnightly Sewing

Previously announced challenges and my plans:

• #1: Make Do & Mend – due Wed 15 Jan. Regency spencer using fabric from another, unfinished project. Status: partially completed, needs lining, closures, hemmed, etc.
• #2: Innovation - due Sat 1 Feb. No plan.
• #3: Pink - due Sat 15 Feb.  Pink 18th century petticoat (aka skirt) to go with the 18th century stays I have in progress. I'd like to do linen if possible, either purchased in the right shade of pink to match my stays or dyed.
• #4: Under it All – due Sat 1 March. Regency underthings. The chemise is already completed, and the short stays are coming along nicely I think. I'm also going to make a petticoat with straps, necessary since my planned ballgown will be rather sheer.
• #5: Bodice - due Sat 15 March. Regency sleeveless spencer out of teal silk, hopefully handstitched.
• #6: Fairytale – due Tue 1 April: Regency Cinderella.
• #7: Tops & Toes – due Tue 15 April.  Bergere hat for my planned 18th century outfit. 

Newly announced challenges and my current thoughts on what to make:

• #8: UFOs & PHDs – due Thur 1 May.  Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.  Check out the post from last year for more information on how to interpret this challenge. This might be finishing the Regency spencer. Or any of the other above challenges. Or my green sari asymmetrical overskirt that's been laying around for months.
• #9: Black and White – due Thur 15 May.  Draw on the opposite ends of the shade spectrum to create something in black and white, or black or white. Black linen 18th century petticoat.
• #10: Art – due Sun 1 June.  Make your own masterpiece based on a work of art. No idea.
• #11: The Politics of Fashion – due Sun 15 June.  World affairs have both affected, and been affected by, fashions.  Craft something that demonstrates the interactions between dress and political history. No idea here either.
• #12: Shape & Support – due Tue 1 July.  Make a garment that changes the silhouette of the human form through shaping and support. Hmmmm, maybe a Civil War corset? Or hoop? Or both?
• #13: Under $10 – due Tue 14 July.  Whip up a fabulous item for under $10 (we’ll use US$ as the de-facto standard) This one will definitely take some major planning to stay under $10!
• #14: Paisley & Plaid – due Fri 1 August.  Plaid is the most universal pattern, found in the textiles of almost all cultures and periods.  Paisley is more unique and recent, but has had a lasting impact on design.  Make something that utilises one or both of these patterns. No real idea yet, but there is some lovely plaid taffeta at the fabric store that I've been eyeing for months...I will probably try to make a plaid overskirt for my bustle gown wardrobe...
• #15: The Great Outdoors – due Fri 15 August.  Get out into the weather and dirt with an item for outdoor pursuits. No firm ideas, but a friend suggested swimwear. Another thought I just had is a better Regency spencer than the one I'm working on, or a Regency pelisse.
• #16: Terminology – due Mon 1 September.  Explore the etymology of fashion by make something defined in the Great Historical Fashion & Textile Glossary (new terminology posts and items will be added throughout the year). No real plan, but some ideas: balmoral petticoat, corselet / swiss waist, chemisette, pierrot jacket...leaning towards either a Swiss waist for Civil War dress or a pierrot jacket since a similar jacket is already on my to do list and it'd just be a matter of altering the pattern a little.
• #17: Yellow - due Mon 15 September.  Embrace the sunny side with something in any shade of yellow. No real idea, but maybe something for the Civil War...
• #18: Poetry in Motion - due Wed 1 October  Find inspiration for a garment in poetry and song.   No idea.
• #19: HSF Inspiration - due Wed 15 October.  One of the best things about the HSF is seeing what everyone else creates, and using it to spark your own creativity.  Be inspired by one of the challengers item from HSF ’13 or HSF challenges 1-18 to make your own fabulous item. Another one that will have to wait, until I'm inspired by someone's work!
• #20: Alternative Universe – due Sat 1 November.  Create a garment from an alternative universe: fantasy, steampunk, dieselpunk, etc.  Your item can be perfectly historically accurate within our own universe as well. A steampunk outfit, of course. Or maybe rococopunk. Or maybe I'll just wait to make my new black and gold corset and do it for this challenge.
• #21: Re-do – due Sat 15 November.  Pick any previous challenge and re-do it (or do it for the first time).  It could be one that you didn’t finish, one that you wish you’d had more time for, or any time for, or one where you loved the theme so much you want to do it again. Probably more underthings, for either 18th century or Civil War.
• #22: Fort-nightliers Choice – due Mon 1 December.  This one is up to you!  In June I’ll ask for suggestions for a theme, and we’ll vote to pick the one you most want to do as our 22nd Challenge of the year. Obviously, planning for this one will have to wait until we pick the challenge!
• #23: Modern History – due Mon 15 December.  Make something historical or historically inspired that is wearable in an everyday context. Hmmm, maybe a 1940s dress or skirt...
• #24: All that Glitters – due Thur 1 January.  Celebrate your completion of HSF ’14, and the New Year, with a glittery, glitzy, sparkly, shiny, something. Civil War ballgown. Maybe. 

Projects that I'd like to fit in somewhere:

• 18th century jacket out of flocked cream and black taffeta 
• Wash overskirt, grey and trimmed in black and red 
• If I finish the asymmetrical overskirt, I'll need to make a bodice to match. 

 

Historical Sew Fortnightly and Other Historical Sewing Plans

So far, The Dreamstress has posted seven challenges for this year:

1. Make Do and Mend - I've been working on a Regency spencer made from an old project, but it's not turning out very well. I'm going to finish it, but doubt I'll post in on HSF

2. Innovation

3. Pink - I have a couple ideas rolling around in my head right now, mainly because I need something to wear to a party on Feb 14, the day before this is due. lol  Idea #1: 1920s dress, either the Vionnet 20 minute dress on Reconstructing History or the Magic Dance Frock from Dressmaking Research. Idea #2: A pink 18th century petticoat that would match my stays I'm working on. I'm leaning toward this idea, but I worry that I don't have time to finish the stays before the event, let along the hip pads or pocket hoops I'd need as well. And probably a little pink shrug or something as well. (Will work as a rococopunk outfit that way!)

4. Under it All - Still going to be my Regency underthings, which are coming along well.

5. Bodice - Still planning on the teal silk sleeveless spencer.

6. Fairytale - White Regency ballgown with some type of blue open robe for my version of Cinderella.

7. Tops and Toes - Probably a bergère hat

Other Historical Sewing, that I can hopefully work into a yet unannounced HSF challenge:

1. 18th century jacket out of cream and black flocked taffeta with a black petticoat. This is what I'd wear the
bergère with. I'll also need to finishe my stays and make the chemise and underpetticoat as well, plus hip pads or pocket hoops if I haven't already made them. I'll need this by July, my historical costuming group is planning a Bastille Day picnic.

2. I'd love to get some more accurate bustle era things done as well, because said group will also be doing Bustling Through the Park events, probably in the spring and the fall. Maybe my wash overskirt...

3. Civil War, with all the appropriate underthings. Maybe by the fall, my mother and I will be going on vacation to see some Civil War sites, it'd be fun to go in dress.

First Project for 2014 is....

REGENCY!

Is anyone else surprised? Because I kinda am. lol A friend (Dixie, you all know her!) wanted to start a historical costuming group and I said I was down, so we started one. Central Ohio Costuming Society, you can find us on Facebook. And then I read on one of the blogs I follow (The Victorian Needle) that there's a Regency Ball in Michigan in March 2014. I asked Dixie if she was interested and bam! I'm making an outfit in the one era I thought would be the last I tackled. I did a little research, and I could get away with a redingote or something (the ball covers 1790 to 1825, so I do have a little leeway) but I found and fell in love with the open gown so full on Regency it is! Albeit early Regency.

So, my to do list:

1. Regency undergarments: Short stays, chemise and a bodiced petticoat. I already have fabric for the short stays -- white 100% linen and 100% cotton canvas that I found in the remnant bin at Joanns. If I can get on it, I'll do the stays for the HSF 2013 One Metre challenge, if not it'll just go with the rest for the HSF 2014 Under It All challenge.
2. A gown, this will be in white as it seems to be the most common. Plus it'll be easy to dress up or down.
3. And an open robe, probably in pink (for the HSF pink challenge!) in a sari if I can find one I like.

I'm planning to purchase Sense and Sensibility's Regency underthings pattern as well as her Elegant Lady's Closet pattern for the gown. I'll use her tutorial to make the bodiced petticoat based off the gown pattern. And I'm not quite sure on the open robe yet. There aren't a lot of patterns for it out there, so I may have to learn to enlarge and or drape patterns. Eeep.

I also plan to make:

4. A spencer, by cannibalizing the aforementioned Joker coat. It's corduroy which I know they had, but I doubt ladies spencers were a common thing to make from it. But I really love the color so I'm doing it anyways. Since I'm re-using fabric, I'm doing this first to get it done for the Make Do and Mend HSF challenge. I'm going to use the Simplicity Regency dress pattern I have and figure out a pattern for this.
5. A sleeveless spencer, out of some turquoise dupioni silk I have. I don't have a lot left, but it should be enough for a cute little bodice to fancy up my white gown.

Historical Sew Fortnightly 2014 - Edited 11/20

Okay, I'm really gonna do the 2014 HSF, I swear!

I hope!

The Dreamstress has announced the following challenges so far:

1. Make Do & Mend, due January 15. The idea for this one is to fix issues with something and get it ready for the new year, or to re-purpose fabric into something new for your historical wardrobe. No idea what I can do for this one right now, but I'm thinking about it.

2. Innovations, due February 1. "To celebrate the way inventions, introductions and discoveries have impacted fashion, make an item that reflects the newest innovations in your era." Not sure what I'll do for this one either, maybe something black, or white (innovations of dyeing and bleaching respectively) or one of those corsets I have to make (innovation of front fastening busk) or a hoop skirt because that was definitely an innovation...

3. Pink, due February 15. Oh I can definitely think of something pink to do. Maybe an 18th century petticoat.

4. Under It All, due March 1. How perfect for me! Since I need to make all sorts of undergarments. I'll just have to make sure something is done by March 1st!