Progress on 2012 sewing goals - May update

Now for the sewing goals -- costuming.

1. Finish my gypsy steampunk ensemble. DONE
2. 1875 Square Overskirt (Truly Victorian) in black and silver plaid. DONE.
3. Pink and black steampunk ensemble. Progress: Overskirt's done. Bodice is about halfway there.
4. An underbust corset out of left over key print flannel to wear with my Keeper of the Keys skirt and a blouse for steam casual events - Started. If I remember correctly, it's cut out but not assembled

No deadlines:

1. 1884 Wash Overskirt.
2. Sari inspired head to toe Victorian ensemble.
3. Female Joker. Probably going to be a high waisted skirt with a jacket. I think a suit is the best course of action.
4. Natural form Victorian costume.
5. An 18th century costume.
6. A French Huguenot costume

Other sewing goals:

1. Baby quilt for my new nephew. Deadline: sometime between September and Christmas. The current idea is to make a quilt for Minnow to grow into, so there's no rush to have it done by the due date.
2. New retro sundresses.
3. A playsuit with removable skirt - Almost done. Although it currently does not have a matching skirt.
4. Flannel quilt
5. I have some Spiderman flannel that wants to be pajama pants. - DONE
6. Nativity printed cotton dress or skirt
7. A circle skirt out of Halloween pin up fabric.
8. A high waisted skirt from my retro jumper pattern. - probably will be combined with the Joker costume mentioned above.

Truly Victorian Wish List...

...comes to $70. Without shipping.

Ouch.

Well closer to $60 really, because I'm not completely sold on the one bodice pattern I have on there right now...But still, that's rather a lot.

What I would like to buy:

• Victorian petticoats. It comes with four petticoats - early bustle, natural form, late bustle and belle epoch. Definitely a good investment.
• 1870s Underskirt. I need this to go under my square overskirt. I'll make it in the pretty grey taffeta I got for a steal.
  
• 1885 Four Gore Underskirt. Eventually I would like to make this to go with my asymmetrical overskirt, probably in pink satin.
  
• 1873 Polanaise. Not a good investment, doesn't go with anything I already have but I WANT it. It is so freaking pretty.
  
• The only bodice I have is the 1884 French vest and I'm not completely sold on it. So that can definitely wait.
  

I think the most important are probably the petticoat pattern and the underskirt patterns. Even though I really REALLY want the polanaise, I have plans for the others that go with costumes currently in my wardrobe or under construction. So I can justify (somewhat) the underskirt patterns, and the petticoats, but I could wait for the latter if necessary.

And now, it's bedtime. Bonne nuit!

Paris Themed Late 1880s Ensemble - Post the First

Still in the planning stages, so these are just kind of my plans right now.

Patterns

Truly Victorian's 1886 Bordered Asymetrical Overskirt and 1872 Vest Basque Yes, I know, I'm mixing eras, an early bustle bodice probably shouldn't be worn with a late bustle overskirt. However, (1) I don't really like any of the late bustle bodices Truly Victorian has available, except for the French vest. (2) I already own these patterns, so I'm not spending money on the French vest pattern. And (3) It's steampunk, I work on a airship, I can mix eras if I want to.

Since I have no border print to use for the overskirt, I have decided to make my own.

Fabrics


Black and white Paris themed calico: This will be used in strips to make the 'border' of my overskirt. It will also be used for the vest and possibly the collar and cuffs of my basque.



Pink Satin: I have yards (and I do mean yards) of pink satin that was originally bought and used as curtains. My plan is to border it in the Paris print for the overskirt and use it as the main fabric in the basque. If I have enough, I may also make an underskirt, hopefully something more accurate than my current black one which will be the default until a pink one can be made.



Black heavy cotton, I think its target or trigger: This will be the interlining of the basque.

Black broadcloth: This will be the lining of the basque.

Accessories:

I'd like a new hat, but am unsure how to go about it. Neither hat patterns nor buckram frames are very inexpensive. I may look into purchasing a modern hat to use as a base and then decorate it. I want a Victorian-esque hat, not a tiny top hat.

I purchased a Paris pendant (on clearance) and would like to use it somewhere, either as jewelry or as a hat decoration.



Since this pendant has some blue / turquoise, I plan to wear some jewelry I purchased in Paris as a teenager -- a bead and wire necklace and bracelet in silver and turquoise and matching earrings.

Progress on January 2012 Sewing To Do List 3

I made a lot of progress this weekend.

Saturday, at the Build Day:

I finished my steampunk gypsy corset, except for my little D ring decoration. I found another D ring that I may add as well. I laced it using an interesting lacing technique I found via Diary of a Renaissance Seamstress.

I sewed a closure on my new plaid square overskirt and decorated a little hat to go with that outfit. Plain doll hat found on clearance + silver lace + black lace veil + black elastic cord + a plaid fabric flower = awesome new tiny hat! I didn't work on the pocket though.


The hat to wear with my new plaid overskirt.

Speaking of the plaid overskirt...


The apron spread out, pre-assembly.


A close up of the trim.

I didn't work on the Harley Quinn cuffs.

I did get Miss Fletcher's bodice cut out, all three layers (outer, interlining, lining) plus neckline alterations. I also cut out a pair of Spiderman pajama pants for myself, had to cut them a little short due to lack of fabric. I did not cut anything from the Star Wars fabric yet.

Saturday, post Build Day:

I worked on Miss Fletcher's bodice: I ironed the lining pieces, spray starched and ironed the satin outer layer. Then I put the lining together and flatlined the satin with the interlining, a heavy purple cotton (from what I can tell).


Miss Fletcher's bodice, with heavy alteration of the neckline plus a zipper instead of the laces.

Yesterday (Sunday):

I put together the outside of Miss Fletcher's bodice, set up a fitting then headed to the fabric store.

At the fabric store: A zipper for Miss Fletcher's bodice. Three yards of black Paris print calico for my pink satin costume (I decided on a Paris theme). Almost seven yards of the same Star Wars flannel I picked up from another store last week. A little over a yard of black flannel, to use with the Star Wars flannel and to lengthen my Spiderman pajama pants if necessary. And two Simplicity nightgown patterns because I've been wanting to make some old fashioned sleepwear.


Nightgown pattern 1.


Nightgown pattern 2

I'm planning a Star Wars nightgown, probably the first pattern, and hopefully before Ohayocon. I'm also planning some Victorian-esque nightgowns.

Miss Fletcher came over for a fitting. The neckline needed altered a little more and a couple seams needed taken in. After she left, I took in the seams, finished altering the neckline and stitched the lining to the outer bodice along the sides and bottom. All that's left is hand stitching the rest in place.

Current State of the January To Do List:

• Finish the steampunk gypsy corset: This is pretty much done except for the D rings I want to add. - Deadline: ASAP
  
• Make a bodice for Gemma Fletcher of the Archon: All that's left is hand sewing. - Deadline: January 20
  
• Harley Quinn collar and cuffs: Collar's DONE, just need to add velcro and elastic to the cuffs - Deadline: January 27 (Ohayocon)
  
• Make Beau a bag for his closet to keep his unmentionables in: Haven't started this yet. - Whenever it gets done.
  
• Make Beau and I both pajamas for Ohayocon: Spiderman pajama pants have been cut out for myself, but they may be set aside in favor of a Star Wars nightgown and pajama pants for Beau. He's also requesting pillowcases asap. - Deadline: January 27 (Ohayocon)
• Make my plaid square overskirt: This is DONE (except for the decorative pocket, but its currently wearable). And I decorated the hat. - Deadline: January 27 (Ohayocon)
• Concert tshirts throw: Started, still needs a lot of work. - Deadline: February 4

That's all for now!

A bientot!

Miss Leah J Wilde

Progress on January 2012 Sewing To Do List 1

I made quite a bit of progress this weekend:

The new Harley Quinn collar has been topstitched (still need to see about the cuffs though).

The steampunk gypsy corset is almost done. I made the binding and bound the corset, then started setting the eyelets. I need to pick up another package of eyelets to finish it. I have my little D ring to sew to the bottom, but haven't put it on yet.

And...I started my Truly Victorian square overskirt!!! I made a lot of progress yesterday, starting with cutting it out. The main apron piece and the waistband are in the plaid, the back poufs and the tails are in silver satin, and the apron facing and lining were cut from some black broadcloth (so they'd be a little more stable). I also cut two pieces of bias from the plaid to trim out the silver tails. With pattern directions close at hand, I started sewing. So far, the apron facing has been applied, hemmed and turned under the apron. The apron has been hemmed and trimmed with two rows of black ribbon. Unfortunately, I (belatedly) realized that I'd put the ribbon a little too close together for the silver lace because the lace is slightly larger than the ribbon. I interlined the back poufs with some petticoat net (so they'll 'pouf'' better) and stitched the back seam in both the poufs and the back lining. I deviated from the directions regarding the tails. The directions instruct you to stitch them together right sides together and then turn them. Since I'm trimming them in bias binding, I just folded them right sides out and stitched along the edges, because the edges will be finished with the binding anyways. And I started binding the tails.

Up next is sewing the silver lace over the black ribbon to finish trimming the apron and finishing binding the tails. Then putting all the pieces together. Eeep.

I think I'm making decent progress on my to do list, don't you? :)

Miss Leah J Wilde of the Airship Archon, signing out.

January 2012 To Do List

Which is probably overly ambitious, as usual.

First up, I finished piecing the sixth gore of my crazy quilt skirt, so stage one of that is DONE!

Now for the actual to do list:

• Finish the steampunk gypsy corset. I already put boning down the center back, stitched the boning channels close to the boning by hand and finished basting it. Now all I need to do is make the binding, bind it and put in the eyelets. I may add a few little things, like stitching over the eyelets in pretty thread or adding a few D rings. I have some extra trim that I could use to hang the D rings from. Then I could attach things to them... - Deadline: ASAP
  
• Make a bodice for Gemma Fletcher of the Archon. She needs it by the 20th. This should probably be first on my list... - Deadline: January 20
  
• Topstitch my new Harley Quinn collar and see if I can add elastic and velcro to my cuffs. - Deadline: January 27 (Ohayocon)
  
• Make Beau a bag for his closet to keep his unmentionables in. - Whenever it gets done.
  
• I'd love to make some Spiderman pajama pants before Ohayocon, either for Beau or for me. I don't know if I have enough fabric to make Beau a pair, but I'm willing to try! - Deadline: January 27 (Ohayocon)
• Now for what I'd really love to do before Ohayocon: Make my plaid square overskirt. I bought a yard and a half of silver crepe back satin and some black ribbon. I traced out the pattern, which I think sounds relatively easy. I've pulled out the silver lace (that goes over the black ribbon) and some other silver trims to deck out the overskirt with. I also bought a tiny top hat to decorate to wear with it. I'm super excited to work on this, and it may just come before the unmentionables bag and the pajama pants. - Deadline: January 27 (Ohayocon)
• I have a throw I made from old concert tshirts that I'd like to enlarge with more shirts and back with fleece (temporarily) before I see the band perform on Feb. 4. - Deadline: February 4
  

Okay, I think that's it for January. Now to see what I can actually accomplish...

What I Did Over New Years

Quite a bit actually.

I worked on the SPG (steampunk gypsy) corset: Stitched on the last strap with the second buckle that I purchased last week, put in the zipper and basted (almost) all the edges together. I left some of the back un-basted because I need to slide some boning in along the center back edges. What's left to do: Bone the center back. Make and put on the binding. And put in the eyelets. There is a light at the end of the tunnel!

I also started piecing the last gore of my crazy quilt skirt.

And...I traced two of my Truly Victorian patterns: the square overskirt (which is next on my sewing list, I'm going to try to have it done for Ohayocon *fingers crossed*) and the asymmetrical overskirt (which is probably next after the square overskirt). I had just enough tracing stuff (my grandma told me its called 'sew do') to finish both overskirts, I have some left over, maybe enough for the bodice, maybe not. I'll need to purchase some pattern stuff soon.

I also finally sewed the closure onto my new Harley Quinn collar. I need to do a little top-stitching though, to give it a little more roundness.

In other news, they gave me all FIVE of the panels I applied for at Ohayocon. So I'm going to be a busy little girl preparing for those and at the con as well. Of course, the packing plans have already begun based on my panels.

Truly Victorian Pattern Sewing Plans

1886 Bordered Asymmetrical Overskirt: This needs to be done in a bordered fabric. I'm thinking of using a sari-esque brocade. If I can find one that coordinates with some stash fabric, then I could make the vest basque to match. This is going to be an expensive undertaking, because most brocades are around $10 a yard, and I'll need 4.5 yards just for the overskirt, more if I use some as part of a matching bodice.


1884 Wash Overskirt: I have a few ideas for this one. I could do pink satin trimmed in black to go with my plans for the vest basque. Or I could use up some other stash fabric like a white and black floral or the purple linen.


1875 Square Overskirt: I really want to use up some stash materials on this. I want to make it out of my black and silver plaid, trimmed in silver lace laid over black ribbon so it doesn't disappear against the plaid. If I don't have enough plaid, I could do the back poufs in a coordinating fabric, like black or silver satin or even black flocked chiffon like the underskirt I'll wear this with.


1872 Vest Basque: Again, I have several ideas. Pink satin trimmed in black. Or if I can find a sari brocade to coordinate, maybe use my purple linen here.

Of course, all of these plans depend on how much yardage I have of everything, because I have no idea.

Harley Quinn and Thoughts on Tracing Patterns

First up, I sewed the pom poms onto my Harley Quinn collar. So all that's left to do is hook and eyes on each side to fasten it on. Or sewing one side together and hook and eye on the other side, either way will work I'm sure.

Secondly, I've been thinking about working with my Truly Victorian patterns. I know they'll need to be traced, and so my first thought was tracing wheel and tracing paper. But then I thought about it some more and I already have a huge roll of interfacing-ish material that is FOR making patterns, so now I'm thinking laying that over my pattern and tracing with a pen or marker might be the best bet.

We'll be going to my parents' house for Christmas this year. Packing list: Harley Quinn collar and cuffs along with white thread, hooks and eyes and snaps. My crazy quilt skirt. The corset is staying behind because there's nothing I can do at this moment on it. And, of course, my new patterns and tracing supplies. My parents do after all have lovely hardwood floors perfect for tracing. EDIT - Everything's packed, but I decided to leave the tracing supplies behind (the patterns are still going for oohing and aahing purposes however). And I packed supplies for my gypsy scarf -- a plain black bandana I found in my supplies along with some black lace and turquoise and purple ribbon.

A bientot, mes amis! Et Joyeux Noel!

Corset Progress and Other Things

I did finally make that freaking toaster cover! Easiest Christmas gift ever by the way, I just hope my papa likes it.

I've been working on my gypsy corset vest. I finished stitching the eyelet pleather trim to the brown binding and have stitched most of the layered trim on. I picked out buckles but they only had one so I need to get another. The buckle I purchased is attached, so one side of the corset is pretty much done!

What I still need to do: Purchase and attach the second buckle. Put a zipper in the front. Stitch the lining to the outside at the center back and at the shoulders. Make boning channels along the center back and insert bones into all the channels. Make the binding and bind the remaining edges. Put in eyelets in the back (and Beau found a set of eyelet pliers at the house!)

I've also been working on my comic book Harley Quinn improvements: The collar is put together and just needs hooks and eyes to hold it on and the pom poms attached. It's not perfect, but its the best I'm gonna be able to do for now. I put together the cuffs -- white taffeta base and five rows of pleated trim -- so all I need are closures of some sort. I'm thinking snaps.

There has been no progress on the crazy quilt skirt.

So my to do list:
1. Finish the corset.
2. Finish the Harley Quinn collar and cuffs.
3. Make a Santa coat sleeve for Beau.
4. Finish the last two gores of the crazy quilt skirt.

And once all that's done, I can start working on the patterns Beau got me for my birthday. He got me two Truly Victorian patterns I asked for: the vest basque and the square overskirt. Current plans are to make them out of bright pink satin trimmed in black to wear with my black underskirt. However, rumor has it I have more patterns on the way, so those plans may change. I really really really wanna start on them, but I know that the other projects come first which is why I spent time working on them this weekend. :)

Beau bought me the square overskirt


and the vest basque patterns.


Aren't they just beautiful?